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Topics - M@r]{

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Cars for Sale / For Sale: 2005 M3 Convertible
« on: December 31, 2012, 01:49:04 PM »
***Pre P/X Deal*** I will take £9.5k if someone buys this ASAP. This is a no offers price

Rare Individual Spec with lots of options:

* Sat Nav
* TV
* Folding mirrors (also fob controlled)
* CSL reps
* Tein Springs
* CCFL angel eyes
* Zenons
* Heated Seats
* Electric memory seats inc the head rests
* Remote Roof
* upgraded BM54 with line out and aux in.
* Tyre Pressure Monitoring
* Parking Sensors
* Brand new calipers, discs and pads
* M3 number plate
* Depo front indicators
* Genuine wind deflector with storage bag
* Matching blue roof
* 100 Cell Cats (OEM Cats come with the car too)

There is more I\'m sure.

Mileage is 83k.  Inpection 1 service carried out recently at just under 80k miles.  Full Service History including the all important running in service.  Services primarily Dealer, the last few and been Independant BMW Sepcialists.  Taxed until the end of July 2013.  Tyres are premium brand with 5mm + tread.  

Available for separate negotiation is an Estoril Blue Hardtop with stand, ski hatch mounted sub/amp and a CSL Style rear diffuser

The car is in such good condition. It doesn\'t even have any car park dings in the doors!

So final bits remaining. Keep checking back as I will add to this list.


2 way diff (not sure of make) £450

Defi Oil Pressure with sender (black face lights up white) £110

Defi Oil Temp with sender (black face lights up white) £110

Defi Tacho with shift light (90mm) £100

Feed Style Front Bumper, bit tatty, needs spraying £80

Another Feed Style Bumper, in white, had work, good for track/drift use. £80

OEM Bumper in white with front lip and indicators. Ok condition £80

Alternator - part polished £50

Coils - not leading £20ea

Plug leads - can;t remember make but decent, recommended by our drag boys. In blue only fitted for a few miles £30

Modified Front Hubs for more lock £170

URAS Tie Rods for more lock £150

Tein Coilovers - work ok, but look ropey. Don\'t think any leaks. £150

Front Discs - Tarox multigrove, hardly any use (because drift car  ) £100

Rear Discs - Grooved/Drilled, can\'t remember make £75

PPF - weld repair, £20

Rear Strut brace, think its Cusco. Very shiney  Â£65

Rear Bumper (OEM) Vinyl wrapped, white underneath £40

Front Undertray £40

20mm Hubcentric Spacers x4 £45 each pair, £80 for all 4

99 Spec front lights - black £80

99 specc front lights - silver £80


Most parts located just outside of Aylesbury. Should be able to get them to NG33 if it helps. No dibs, deposit/cash is the only way to secure. First refusal given to anyone who can collect. Bumpers collection only. Deals for anyone buying multiple parts, particularly if you are collecting. Bank Transfer preferred, paypal accepted if sent as Gift.

Rotary and General Chit-Chat / Calling those with Bridgeports
« on: August 20, 2010, 09:37:45 AM »
Half or Full. Can you post up telling me:

what bridge you have
the turbo you have
and when you get full boost by

Hey Guys

I\'ve bought a 2nd hand HKS Twinpower and need some tips / help on connecting it up.  Below are some pics - can anyone tell me what needs to connect to what?  :)


As i\'m having a rebuild i\'m interested in the benefits of getting the engine balanced. Price is likely to be around the £400 mark.

Anyone else done this? Is it worth doing? Any opinions?

I\'m considering organising a track day for FDUK and would like to invite anyone from MRC too  :Thumbsup!  

Cost for the circuit, marshalls, paramedic and ambulance works out at about £90 ish each for a full day - open pit lane! On a Saturday!! Its a great little circuit with a fantastic surface (ie smooth and no stones littering the place)

Also that are pretty relaxed around the noise issue! (and relaxed about just about anything!) Back to the good old days eh?  The official limit is 105db I believe but unless your car is rediculously loud you\'ll be ok. Even if it is rediculous they\'d just ask you to change up early on one corner.

Vote if you would be interested. If we get the numbers i\'ll put the wheels in motion.  :cheers

(obviously this thread is on FDUK too but please only vote on one site so I can get an accurate indication of interest)

Weighing up the pros and cons of doing this and seeing that my engine has to come out and eventually get mapped I figure the most cost effective way of going single would be to do it now!  So, i\'ve got a few questions.  I know just about squat about the single turbo set up so bare with me  

External Wastegate?  I love the noise but is there a way of quickly making it internal again to quiten it down?  Ie for when you want to go on track?

I really like that high pitched warble when you back off the throttle?  The alternative to a BOV whoosh, what is that exactly?  A re-circulating valve of some sort?  What are the pros and cons of it over a BOV?

Ball-bearing turbo?  Benefits?

Rebuild costs?  Is there a variance turbo to turbo?

Porting?  How does that effect the turbo?  Ie how early or late it will come in?

Cheers guys


Thinking of going for a single turbo (whilst my engine is out and its has to be mapped anyway), I\'m not fussed about getting 500+ bhp I just want something that will suit me for drifting. I want one that spools up quick and will come in nice and early - basically something as near to the same driveability as the stock twins.

So what sort of thing should I be looking for?

Thanks guys

General Technical / Are these symptoms related to gearbox problems?
« on: April 14, 2009, 01:21:35 PM »
I assumed the following was a sign of impending gearbox failure, but having spoken to someone i\'m now having doubts.

The issue is this. When backing off in 2nd I can hear a grinding / rattle noise that appears to be coming from the gearbox area. On my last event this has now started happening in 3rd and to a certain extent 4th. I can select gear no problem and there is no noise on tick over, when cruising or when accelarating.

So does this sound like the gearbox? I have been told as this only happens when backing off it is unlikely. It wasnt that long ago I had the clutch replaced, the 2nd gear problem was evident at the time and is still evident since. The clutch did come with some sort of bearing. i have the standard FD push or pull type what ever it is.

Any thoughts? Money is tight and I dont want to swap it over if it isnt needed.


General Technical / Replacement HKS Filters - where from?
« on: July 18, 2008, 10:17:22 AM »
Just had a look at mine, they have seen better days!  Where is the best place to get these from?

I bought some alloys but the entrance to the socket holes is way to slim to get a socket in there to tighten up the nuts.  

Whats the best thing to do to get around this problem???

Found an Exedy 3 puk sprung clutch.  Is this bad for the drivetrain?   Is it any better or worse than an unsprung 6 puk?

I have a brand new ACT Unsprung 6 puk clutch.   I ordered it in error, meant to get the sprung one.  I ordered a spung disc from the states, been waiting for weeks, they said they shipped it but it still hasnt arrived  :mad:   I\'ve been emailing and calling but no reply.  So I filed a dispute with Paypal, 20mins later I get a refund  :mad: :mad: :mad:   So looks like they hadnt shipped it all along.

Thing is i\'m desperate to get this sorted asap, i\'ve got the Activity Day next Sunday!!  

So what should I do, just fit this unsprung one?  I worried it will put too much strain / shock to my drivetrain, gearbox, diff etc.  I could try to source a replacement clutch in the UK and sell this one, but time is of the essence!

BTW I need an uprated one for drifting.

I have this electronic box thing that connects your PFC to your laptop.  Its made by this company:

The product information is here:  

Any ideas what it does?  Anyone know if you can download the software to use it?  Or a manual?

Any ideas?

Is there anything to be careful of or worth keeping in mind when replacing the clutch?  And roughly how long will it take for someone with a ramp and all the tools but not any experience with FD\'s?


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