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Topics - Mazdarotaryparts

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2nd generation RX-7's / Half Price Exedy Clutch RX-7 FC EGI
« on: November 10, 2011, 01:52:10 PM »

We have two Exedy clutch assemblys that were  wrongly ordered last week, so these are brand new and not even old stock !

Exedy Part number MZK2058

Delivered retail is normaly £216 /

Special offer price £100 delivered anywhere to the UK.

Even if your EGI does not need a clutch yet, at this price its worth putting one in your shed ready for when you do.

RX-8's / RX8 Coil Upgrade
« on: January 14, 2009, 05:32:30 PM »
MRP can offer the latest Genuine Mazda uprated RX-8 coil packs to offer it’s customers that are not available in the UK or Europe, at a saving of £44 per coil over the Mazda UK price.  

As you may know ignition coil packs have become a potential failure point on all 30,000 mile plus RX-8’s this has unfortunately led to engine failures attributed, 100% to the coils not powering the spark plugs properly.

When these coils fail the unfortunate driver often never even knows he has a problem as there is not a huge power decrease, however due to the coils not producing enough power to the spark plugs this has led to unburnt fuel being left in the engines Rotor chamber that has then washed the oil away leading to rapid wear, loss of compression resulting with the engine not starting properly and the only cure being a new engine.

Any competent DIY owner should be able to change these easily with very few tools as the coils sit directly on top of the engine to give your engine insurance against the type of failure explained above.

There are four individual coils fitted to the engine. Coils can be bought separately or as a set of four.  

With each full set of coils purchased,  MRP  will also make available a set of 8mm Magnecor silicon plug leads to help complete your ignition system upgrade at 30% less than the recommended price.

Anticpated delivery time 2 weeks

A member recently asked me the difference between a 2 way diff and a 1.5 way diff and here is my explanation about the different types of rear axle Differential and what they will do to the way your car goes around corners.

First of all the reason we have these differentials fitted is because as you turn a corner the inner wheel attempts to rotate at a different speed and without a “differential” that will allow one wheel to go faster than the other, the inside tyre that is turning into the bend will wear out VERY quickly as it will scrub and “hop” whilst the vehicle is in the corner.
Another side effect of this scrubbing is a detrimental effect on the vehicles handling, but more of this later.    

To now come back to the original question, these 2 way and 1.5 way diffs made by Kazz and Cusco are not as some may think new technology indeed they are just basic old style Salisbury LSD’s (limited slip diff ) that were used on Jaguars and Triumphs etc in the 1950s’ and the name Salisbury came from the company that manufactured these diffs.
These diffs work by the fact that as one wheel attempts to spin faster than the other when you are on the throttle the LSD diff locks up to then transmit equal power from your engine to both wheels.

This action is carried out by the “cross shafts” that locate the planet gears which operate the speed differential climbs up a ramp cut in the differential housing and exerts pressure on the plates that are on either side of the planet gears that are in the centre of the diff assembly and this in turn locks the diff to transmit the equal power.  (See attached picture for explanation)  

Now what is the difference between the 1.5 and 2 way, well the 1.5 on entering a corner will allow the inner wheel to turn and the differential to operate till you put the power on thus making the diff clamp or “lock” itself together.

The 2 way “diff” however already have the plates under preload effectively locking the diff almost completely as you turn into a corner; the side effect of this is that because both wheels are still locked and the inner is scrubbing into the corner understeer IS induced and understeer in its worst form means the car will not want to turn into a corner and will want to go straight on, which is why it is called understeer.

Then once you have got the car into a corner and try to exit because the diff is already locked up, then “snap” oversteer is induced both of which will make a car overall go slower around a corner on the road and on a race track, however this is why the Drift guys love these 2 way diffs literally because of the way they screw up the handling and make the back “step out” as soon as you go near the throttle.

On the other hand a 1.5 way diff will operate in the same way as a normal diff that has no lockup capability and will not screw up the handling of the car providing that preload on the plates that were described earlier is not too great.

I know the above because when I raced in my early years I could not afford LSD or as you know them, 1.5 way diffs and used to weld my diffs to lock them up solid but suffered from evil handling cars that never won a thing, but in later years I even worked out that by stripping the LSD diffs and swapping the plates around thus making the preload less than it should be as standard and guess what I then won lots of races.         ( I used to set the preload at just 80lbs)  

Now we have talked about Sailsbury LSD’s, 1.5 way and 2 way diffs its worth knowing there are other way of making both your wheels transmit power.

There’s a diff that’s called a spool type diff which is where there is no diff but just a lump of billet steel to locate the crown wheel and the only purpose of these is for Drag racing where you want both the wheels to turn the same time all the time.

Another is a pawl type diff where lumps of metal inside the diff throw out centrifugally to lock it.

The last and in my opinion the best without going to computer controlled hydraulic diffs is the Torsion  diff as used in RX-7’s and RX-8’s that  have Limited Slip Diffs.

These diffs are ideal because they work purely on gears and worm drives within the diffs and need no preload thus letting the wheels turn correctly upon entering a corner but then making both wheels turn together when leaving the corner on power with no detrimental effect on the vehicles handling.

Especially over the last few weeks we have found that our customers have needed some guidance fitting their newly purchased Brake pads so I thought I would put something together explaining how to safely change your brake pads for all of you who may be unsure on how to carry out this task on a 2nd Gen, 3rd Gen and 1st Gen providing it has Disc brakes all round.


After jacking up and putting axle stands under the car proceed with the following/

Most important always do one side at a time so you can refer to the other side to see how things fit on the other.

To change the rear pads/

After removing the wheel you will find two bolts behind the calliper that hold the calliper on, undo these bolts and slide them out and now lift the calliper off, now before going any further make note of how the wire spring clips fit into the holes in the edge of the old pads.

Next you will need to wind the single piston back to make room for the new thicker pads; you can do this with a long nose pair of pliers.

Hold the calliper with one hand and with your pliers located in the two V shaped cut out’s turn the piston clockwise whilst pushing in the piston.

Take care that the V’s end up at 12oc and 6oc or the piston will not locate on the pin that you will see sticking out of the back of the pad, if you don’t get this right the piston will not ratchet out to adjust the hand brake linkage.

Place the new pads onto the pad carrier bracket still on the car and locate the spring clips into the holes in the pads, now holding the pads onto the disc faces with a thumb and a finger place the calliper back over the top of the pads and slide the retaining bolts in and tighten.

Now work the handbrake leaver up and down to regain the correct adjustment


To renew the front brake pads /

First of all place a piece of rag over the cap on the brake master cylinder just incase any fluid comes out as you push the pistons back in the callipers.

Once again, strip one side at a time so you can use the other side for reference.

Remove the wire clip that goes through the holes in the two long pad retaining pins, now pull out the pins making special note of how the pads wire spring clips attach to the pins and the pads.

Next, before sliding the pads out use a screw-driver or pry bar to leaver between the pad and the disc but only push the end into the pad and not the face of the disc so you do not damage the disc.

This is to push the pistons back into the calliper to accommodate the new thicker pad.

Still with one old pad in slide out the one you have pushed back towards you with a pair of pliers or grips then place just the one new pad in the gap between the pistons and the disc.

Now repeat this procedure to fit the new pad onto the other side of the disc, then once you have replaced your pins and spring clips go and pump the pedal to push the pistons out onto the disc.

The pumping of the Pedal is VERY important otherwise on the first application the car will not stop!!

Now move to the other side of the car and repeat the same procedure.

Lastly read any instructions that may have come with your pad set that may tell you how to bed in your new pads to make them correctly efficient.


I decided to put this here rather than the ForSale section as this post is about information more than anything else and may help a lot of RX-8 owners long term.

As most of you know there has been a problem with RX-8\'s non starting at times due to flooding,this is a problem that has affected Rotary\'s for many years but it is a problem that can be cured by using a combination of Spark Plugs of different heat ranges.

Please read our Mazdarotaryclub FAQ on Spark Plugs for a full explanation of how and why plugs affect these cars.

As a distributor for NGK I have worked closely with NGK technical discussing this problem in depth for weeks because I had realised that RX-8\'s only come fitted with \'\'cold\'\' plugs, i.e. of the \'9\' heat range and this was the most probable cause for the non starts that have occurred, especially knowing that a lot of the time flooding occurs if the car is not warm up and is turned off very soon after staring when the vehicles cold start system is still in operation and leaves too much fuel in the combustion area and the colder plugs are unable to fire this \'\'wet\'\' mixture.

After much research with NGK they have now found a Spark Plug in the \'\'7\'\' heat range that can be fitted into the Leading Side of the engine ( standard \'\'9\'\'s  stay in the trailing side) , we are now in a position to supply these plugs to our customers safe in the knowledge that these have been tried and tested in many many Mazda\'s without any problems and are now available from ShyAuto.

This is written in the hope the above will help these cars not only now but also as they become older and  is in no way meant to be detrimental to Mazda as many many cars on the market have a small Achilles heal, but with this addition to your engine and information hopefully this problem will be severely alleviated, and enable RX-8 owners to enjoy their cars all the time, because they won\'t have to worry about a non starting situation occurring.

All the best Clive

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