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Topics - chris

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1
Old school Mazda's / RX3 build nears completion
« on: October 23, 2016, 10:15:47 PM »
Following several years of working on a rolling shell I am getting close to the finish line of my Rx3 project.


Not for the purist and I am sure not to everyone's taste.

She came back from the second trip to the paint shop last week and is now going back together at a pace.

 
12A turbo with custom exhaust (freshly rebuilt)
Link G4 Atom standalone ecu
5 speed 12A turbo gearbox
Mazda RX7 FB Limited slip differential
12A front nosecone, grille, lights etc
Custom front hub, 4 pot brake and disc upgrade.
Watanabe rsr 10.5j rear 8j front



2
Old school parts and motors / fb series 3 front strut required
« on: March 07, 2015, 03:18:05 PM »
Hi,

I am need of a series 3 FB front strut, not worried about condition as needed for coilover conversion.

thanks

Chris

3
Cars for Sale / 1996 fd type r with rebuild
« on: May 01, 2014, 02:58:28 PM »
I am looking to sell my 1996 Fd with a freshly rebuilt engine.

The car is fitted with stock Twin turbo\'s and engine wise is running stock air filter and intercooler. It is a type R with twin oil coolers.

It is running stock ECU although I have a power FC and commander which can be supplied as part of a deal if required. It is fitted with a 1999 spec front end and a set of coilovers, decat pipe and a blitz type rear box, it has a uk rear bumper which I fitted when I first bought the car but is a jap import

Interior is stock and in pretty good nick for year etc.

It is fitted with 17" wheels at the moment but I also have stock wheels if preferred.

I have owned the car for the past 14+ years and am the only UK owner, it is registered as a 1.3 so cheap tax

Bad bits;

The paintwork has a few marks, usual door dings etc and a mark on the NS front wing which was from the wheel touching the arch many moons ago. I can get this painted but have reflected current condition in the price.

The speedo seems to be slow to get going in the morning after 10 mins driving reacts perfectly.


Looking for £6495 with power fc and wheels as per the picture, although can discuss options

I am sure I have missed lots of info so please call to discuss

Chris 07814 019599

4
3rd generation RX-7's / can you find an fd spec from a chassis number?
« on: April 15, 2014, 01:57:42 PM »
Hi I am looking at a car at the moment and want to confirm what spec it is on an import Fd, can this info be identified from the chassis number?

5
Cars for Sale / 99 spec onwards wanted
« on: March 28, 2014, 02:40:45 PM »
Looking for a 99 spec car, unfortunately the one listed by ceri below is gone let me know if you have anything....

6
Cars for Sale / white low mileage 1994 FD rolling shell
« on: November 18, 2012, 06:10:02 PM »
white 1994 fd rolling shell with rear cage and coilovers.

Paint is a bit flat, but a straight shell ideal for track use or have necessary paperwork to register.
approx 34k miles

£1400.00

Chris
07814019599

7
General Technical / exedy replacement plates
« on: June 10, 2009, 11:07:57 AM »
Where is the best place to buy replacement plates for an exedy twin plate?

8
General Technical / Enhanced SVA
« on: July 26, 2007, 10:19:58 AM »
Can anyone advise me on requirements for getting a 2001 RX7 through an ESVA

9
General Technical / Metallic Yellow paint code
« on: November 17, 2006, 09:42:26 AM »
Does anyone have the paint code for the mazda metallic yellow FD

Thanks in advance

Chris

10
Anything Engine/Performance/Tuning related / Alarm Related Posts
« on: November 10, 2006, 11:53:00 AM »
I have been avidly watching the alarm/Immobiliser threads for a while, and think it may be time to add my ten pence worth….(sorry it is a bit on the long side)

Most alarm fitters cut the main feed from the ignition switch as this is the easiest and quickest to find, the Black and white wire from your ignition switch on an RX7 is the main supply for the fuel pump, ignition coils and meter supply fuse . This wire is approx 10 AWG rated at 35 Amps continuous , with most alarm immobiliser wires approx 18 AWG rated at best around 10-15Amps continuous. Mazda went to excessive lengths to reduce weight in the car, they would not have over specified a wire unnecessarily!

The three circuits that the black and white wire feed are:
Coil supply, this does not have a fuse after the ignition supply, but is unlikely to be above 8-10 Amps continuous (I have tested a single coil running at 8000 rpm to help back up this estimate)
Fuel pump supply 20 Amp fuse (overload current rating for fuses is 75% of running giving 15 Amps normal running current)
Meter fuse supply 15 Amp fuse ( at 70% running current gives 11.25 Amps)

So total max running current of this circuit can be up to 35-37 Amps!

Effects of voltage drops
Most/some ignition systems compensate for voltage drop by increasing dwell, I am unsure if a power FC operates in this manner, I would have to carry out some testing to prove either way.
If we assume it can compensate for voltage fluctuations, If there is a voltage drop on the coil feed, the ECU will never see this, as the main supply to the ECU is separate from that of the coil supply, with the ECU being supplied by the EGI fuse via the main relay. The EGI fuse has no reference to the coil supply voltage.

The fact the fuel pump wiring is also fed by this wire is especially concerning as any drop in voltage at high demand can/may result in subsequent reduction in fuel pressure, leading to lean running conditions!!

I would recommend avoiding interrupting a feed wire of this level of current draw, instead opting to cut one of the relay activation circuits, which draw a few milliamps at best. If you have no choice but to cut a wire of this size and respective current draw, use a 40Amp+ relay to switch the circuit, this can then be switched using your alarm immobiliser circuit and retaining your alarms integrity, and ensuring the circuit requirements are met


ADDITIONAL COIL INFORMATION (if you are still awake!)
Without going too heavily into ignition coil design, the fundamentals are that an ignition coil is basically a transformer, when current is switched  to the primary winding of the ignition coil for a specific time a  magnetic field is created, the strength of this field is directly effected by the voltage and time that the coil is switched on for (dwell) When the ignitor switches off the supply, the field collapses, this causes a voltage spike, depending on coil design will be in the region of  350volts, with a turns ration of 100:1 this will give a peak secondary voltage of 35,000 Volts.

The problem of voltage drop at the coil supply is that the current stored in the primary windings is a function of voltage and dwell, therefore reducing or increasing dwell or voltage will effect the spark voltage and spark energy produced by the coil. As a rule of thumb, a 10% drop in supply voltage results in a 10% drop in secondary Spark energy.
Note that spark energy is different to spark peak voltage (secondary voltage)


Hope this makes sense!

Chris

11
General Technical / 5 Reasons for engine failures on RX7\'s
« on: March 30, 2005, 06:49:26 PM »
After reading Boomins post about the 50k rebuild claim I thought it was worth clearing up a few issues.

I can give first hand knowledge of engine life; I worked as a Mazda technician from 1991-1998,  where I fitted many engines under warranty and rebuilt several for customers on UK fd\'s long before people started importing Rx7\'s and years before any Fd\'s were seen outside of the Mazda dealership network, from 1998 to 2001 worked part time at RX Motors where I have examined hundreds of blown FC and FD engines and from 2001 to date have been rebuilding engines for my own customers. During this time I do not believe that I have seen more 13b turbo cars than I can count on one hand that have allegedly made the 100k miles mark, and some of those I think were rebuilt/replaced prior to that point.
In general most FD\'s are doing well if the engine is untouched at 60k miles, and does indicate more motorway mileage.

Hopefully this will help answer the expensive \'what happened to my engine\' question

In the early days the need for rebuilds was mainly due to seal failure on circa 60k miles, however as we started reaching the 8-10 year old phase of most of the fd\'s out there, it is more common to be due to either water seal failure or water channels cracking, there are several reasons as I see it for different cars obtaining different mileages and reasons for failures:

1/ Tip failure due to wear, this can differ from car to car depending on the type of driving, long motorway journeys vs. short stop starts (multiple heat cycles from hot to cold)

2/ Tip failure due to detonation, more common on modified cars but not unheard of on poorly maintained stock cars (plug/lead failure, fuel system problems etc etc)

3/ Water seal failure, as Carl says in boomins post, degradation can be hugely advanced due to leaving a flooded engine full of fuel, which attacks the seals. There is also definitely a connection to corrosive antifreeze attacking the metal surrounding the seals, and general degradation of ten year old seals, again effected by multiple heat cycles and aging cooling systems (poor water flow through rad, water pump cavitation, lack of ducting etc etc)

4/ Water channel failure (cracked plate around the seal channel) this seems to be due to difference of thickness of material around the outer edge of the seal channel, the thickness varies considerably, this is compounded when corrosion sets in and attacks the already thin metal, causing a fracture point. (This is again not helped by poor water flow etc)

5/ Warped plate/plates and shrunk housings, this is primarily due to severe overheating due to prolonged driving once overheating has occurred (due to lack of water, as in a leak, poor water circulation or a fault as listed in 3 and 4)



Sorry it is a long post but hopefully clears up a few issues

12
Anything Engine/Performance/Tuning related / Finally Dyno\'d my FD
« on: January 04, 2005, 05:56:35 PM »
After falling out with my FD back in the summer (after it sh@t itself hours before TOTB) I finally put some TLC in and then drove down to Reworx Chrismas eve to finally get a power figure from it. For those of you that don\'t know the car,  I built a dual turbo setup, constructing my own bespoke manifold and downpipe. I used two hybrid turbo\'s, that I made up from turbo II compressors and 12a turbo exhaust housings (AR 0.55) I ported the engine (developing my own port design) the intercooler is also a bespoke unit which I was developing for my old company (sensetuning) before my full time job took over all my spare time.

Anyway the rest of the engine setup is:
Power FC
Greddy profec B boost controller
Sensetuning sandwich plate injector assembly (4 x 550cc additional)
Sensetuning front mount intercooler
Apexi GT spec exhaust
Apexi twin chamber BOV
Bosch 044 fuel pump
Sensetuning swirl pot
HKS 11.5 plugs

The fuel system had been replaced sinse TOTB due to fuel pressure issues with the previous dual pump setup. We spent a few hours tuning and grinning more and more as the HP figures steadily climbed, for those of you that have tuned on the dyno, it is fairly addictive to keep increasing boost which I did, peak RWHP was 405 at 1.1Bar boost 310 FtLb torque, when I opted to turn up the boost controller to max and go for glory at which point she decided that that was enough at peak torque and 1.3 Bar boost she spat a tip or two out of the rear rotor, So after rebuilding it and increasing the exhaust ports slightly she is now running at a Bar and around 375 RWHP which is fairly lively in these conditions.  
:D :D

How do I get this figure installed into the database?
Engine built by Sensetuning
Tuned by RE Worx

13
Anything Engine/Performance/Tuning related / TOTB III The nightmare!!!
« on: August 02, 2004, 10:00:51 AM »
After several months of preparation, had some final stiffening up of the differential mount, the vehicle lift at my friends workshop was out of action, spoke to Tim and he kindly offered the use of his ramp.
Spent a few hours getting things ready with lots of extra bracing and a lockup drag diff fitted, made my way home to get ready to make the 5+ hour drive to York. On the way home, had a practice launch from a standstill, hit third gear and all things went to sh$t……….she was on one rotor!!!!!!!!!
Limped half way back to Tims when it stalled and couldn’t get it started, called Tim and he towed me back to the workshop. A Friend of mine turned up and we all stood looking at the car in pure disbelief. After the numbness had set in I started to think how many months and hours I had spent getting this far just to fall at the last hurdle!
By 4.00pm we had all persuaded each other that it was worth a shot, Tim got to work preparing a new rotor and by 5.00 the engine was out the back plate was off and I handed Tim a rotor, at which point he quickly put it on the floor saying “ in all the years I have worked on rotaries I have never had a rotor so hot that I can’t even hold it!”

A new set of tips and the engine was back in the car and running by 8.30pm!! Totally knackered I thanked Tim for his help, downed a can of red bull got cleaned up and left at about 10pm, got to York at 3am and made a slight detour to get fuel, went over a set of speed bumps then the car started missing badly, it seemed to be on one rotor again!!!!!!!!!! A few seconds later it cut out!!!!!


In a panic under a small key ring torch I removed the top plugs and cranked her over. The engine seemed good. Went to check for any indications on the power fc commander, it was dead! Checked fuses relays and every wire I could, nothing!
Managed to persuade a taxi driver to tow me to the bed and breakfast got to sleep at 5.00am, woke at 7.00 in the vain attempt to fix her pulled the engine loom out, couldn’t find anything checked as much as I could and by 9.00 knew it was all over, beaten tired and gutted I half heartedly went to spectate. Thanks to David for picking me up.
Eventually got picked up by the AA at 5pm and got home at 12.30am.

The rear rotor has been rich for some time now which seems to be part of this underlying problem, when I have sussed the cause I will let you know, It will be back, but not for a while as I don\'t like rotaries very much at the moment

:o :confused: :mad: :mad:
was TOTBIII look forward to next year!

:confused:

14
Anything Engine/Performance/Tuning related / Totbiii
« on: July 28, 2004, 10:37:16 AM »
Had my final mapping session last night, thankfully she held together!! Thanks Jason, a job well done!
Power seems good, unfortunately couldn\'t get to the boost level that I was hoping for, ran out of flow from the turbo\'s!

It\'s a bit of a shame that some of the larger power RX7\'s arent involved, as all other makes and models are out in force.......again!

Hope to see a few of you up on Sunday to see myself and Tony  running!

It looks like a fairly impressive turnout from some of the supras, skylines and evo\'s claiming iro 1000BHP!!!


:wave

15
General Technical / TOTB III Let the panic begin!!
« on: June 22, 2004, 02:09:00 PM »
Spoke to henning regarding the TOTBIII list today, the list is currently :



Phil Gooriah
Erdin Halil
Chris Philp (Sense Tuning)
Anthony Fleming (Sterte Garage)
Ross Juniper (Dragon Performance)
We have Max as a backup incase anyone should drop out.

I thought I had heaps of time to finish eeking the last few ponies out of her, but as anyone knows who has tried getting a car ready for such an event there 5 weeks ain\'t that long!!

What stage are the rest of the list at??

Has anyone got a barely legal pair of DJo1\'s that they will be replacing soon??

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