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Topics - cib24

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After the success of the track day last August which a RX-7 owners participated in, Magnitude Events has secured a day at Blyton Park on 5th July 2019 solely for rotary car owners. There are about 11 cars signed up so far with a mix of FDs and RX-8s, and we will allow 24 cars total.

The event costs £179 and will be reduced to £160 if we sell out by 1st June (people will be refunded £19). It is open to ALL rotary cars no matter how old or whether a 13b is swapped into something else!

The ticket price includes the track day in club format (only 6 cars on track at a time so you don't need to worry about traffic!), breakfast, lunch, snacks and drinks, free photos and tuition. Quite a deal compared to your standard track day that isn't rotary exclusive.

Guest/passenger entry is £25 and if you want to bring a friend as an extra driver it is £40, meaning you can attend the day even if your car won't be leaving your garage!

Noise limit is 95 dB drive-by but they don't generally check unless your car is stupidly loud.

Blyton is a nice circuit that isn't very hard on your car and has nothing to hit so this event will also be a good way to introduce yourself and your car to a circuit and experience it's performance.

We intend to do some video work, record laps, etc.and share the day across the UK rotary forums and Facebook pages.

I hope we will see you there! Any questions, just ask below.


I became a paying member on this site not long ago (I know I know). Anyway, I just cancelled my insurance with my previous provider as they wanted an extra £200 this year for some weird reason. I feel like anything north of £500 per year on a car like this which doesn't get driven that much is ridiculous. I haven't considered classic car insurance until now, but since the car is about to be 20 years old then I figure it's worth a try?

Who should I be calling for quotes? It seems that so many people can insure these cars stock or modified for under £400. Hopefully I have a shot.

Thanks for the help.

3rd generation RX-7's / Dyno Day at Jamsport: Results and Analysis
« on: November 14, 2018, 12:16:27 PM »
Hello, I figured that this information should be shared across the FD community. If you want to see a comparison against FDs with different setups from a stock 99-spec Bathurst to street ported twins to wild single turbo setups, AND a comparison of those results against one another then please have a look at the link below.

Had my car dyno'd today using a Maha dyno. Not 100% sure about the results as they seem kind of high to me by about 40-50 bhp but I'm not complaining! The curve is pretty good and the torque curve can't really be improved without more fuel and more boost on the primary.

AFRs at the low end start around 11.4:1 after about 3,000 RPM average about 10.9-11.1:1 to redline.

Air temps on water were low 30's C, off water as you see in the Commander shot.

Stock fuel system. Stock 550/850 cc/min injectors, stock pump hotwired for full 12V, HKS Twin Power and mods in signature.

Ambient temps were about 8 C today. Pretty cold.

398 Bhp (340 Whp) @ 6,036 RPM, 350-360 lb/ft (299-307 Wlb/ft) @ 3,000 - 6,000 RPM.

Video of the dyno and my disbelief

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Club Photo and Video Index / My Mazda RX-7 - Reviewed
« on: November 04, 2017, 10:45:11 AM »
Let me know what you guys think! I personally think the guy did a really good job summarizing the car and dispelling a few of the rotary myths without getting too technical.

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I love my paint colour.

Hi all,

Back when I bought my car the original paint was pretty rough and I decided to have it resprayed by a shop recommended to me by other RX-7 enthusiasts. At the time all I wanted was a simple respray to bring the exterior back to life but unfortunately the respray was a disaster (I won't get into the details but I probably could have done a better job if I had the equipment) and I have wanted my car corrected ever since.

I am now prepared to pay the cost for a quality job and this time I want it done correctly, which means going back to metal where needed, applying filler where necessary, correcting any areas of surface rust that can't readily be seen, smoothing out lumpy panels, glass out, fixing all of the overspray which is all over the place, targeting a relatively flat finish with limited orange peel, etc. The only places that won't be sprayed are the engine bay and interior.

I have visited a few higher end places that have really good reputations and typically work on exotic metal but the quotes received are beyond what I am comfortable spending on this car given its current and future value as well as the fact that I actually drive it and take it to the track where it is more prone to scuffs and scrapes (although I haven't had any trouble with that yet). These quotes are around £10k and I would prefer to spend closer to £5k although I have a bit of flexibility.

As such, does anyone have legit recommendations seeing as some of you have a few very nice cars or even classics that have been repainted in recent years?

I am located in East London and shops around London or in Essex, Kent, Sussex, etc. would be easiest but I am prepared to travel quite far for the right shop.


Wanted Items / Good set of twins
« on: March 26, 2016, 11:01:20 PM »
Looking for a good set of twins. Preferably 99 spec but also ok with older twins but made after 1995.


Wanted Items / Coil Loom for 96-02 FD
« on: January 28, 2016, 08:04:04 PM »
Looking for a coil loom for a 1996 or later FD. This part but it is slightly different for later cars than the one that Atkins Rotary sells:

I calibrated my speedo this weekend and it is now only about 1-2mph too fast at 70 vs 7-9 mph off before. I also decided to check the trip computer compared to my GPS on my phone since I always knew it was a bit off and counted too fast. However, today after a bit of a drive it was reading much lower than it should have:

GPS - 40 miles

Trip - 32 miles

It can't be working in kms because then the number would be higher than 40 (about 64).

Has anyone had this kind of issue before? I'm not sure how it went from reading slightly fast to this much slower.

How do you correct the trip computer/odometer so it's accurate?

Wanted Items / 99 Spec Turbos
« on: August 20, 2015, 11:05:35 AM »
I'm always on the lookout for a good used set of 99 specs as mine are leaking and are only going to get worse with time. If anyone has anything please send me a PM/email/whatever.

3rd generation RX-7's / Boost Spike - 1999 Series 8 RS
« on: August 19, 2015, 12:30:38 PM »
I have a 1999 Series 8 RS which is a 280ps model with 99 spec turbos. The car is basically stock except for the Apexi twin intakes and a Fujitsubo cat-back exhaust. The car still has the stock catalytic converter and ECU. I installed a Defi boost gauge the other day to allow me to see how the car is boosting and give me more confidence running to redline. Unfortunately, I discovered massive boost spiking when the 2nd turbo comes on at 4.5k RPM so I only did three 3rd gear pulls and didn't keep my foot in it when I saw the spiking occurring. Effectively, what I'm seeing and hearing is:

  • Primary turbo boost: c.0.75-0.8 Bar (maybe slightly over)
  • Secondary turbo boost from 4.5k RPM: Spike to just under 1.0 Bar and then bleeds off to fluctuate between 0.8-0.9 Bar (could be slightly lower or higher but hard to know for sure when concentrating on the road)
  • Loud air fighter jet-like whistling noise when the second turbo comes on. Never noticed it before the gauge install. Sounds really cool but makes me nervous.

Factory boost on this model should be about 0.75 Bar and with the Apexi filters and Fujitsubo cat-back I expected maybe up to 0.8 Bar at most. However, the boost I'm seeing is too high and doesn't make any sense to me. I didn't experience any fuel cut and the car pulled like a train the entire time I had my foot in it (which was very brief) so I'm not sure where to start with the diagnosis.

Oddly enough, the previous owner whom imported the car from Japan drove it like he stole it and never had any issues and I haven't had any issues yet either. I also had the car compression tested recently and it was F: 7.7, 7.6, 7.6 and R: 8.0, 8.0, 8.0 so the motors at least pretty good for now.

I intend to use this car on the track and was hoping to do one track day before the weather gets sour but I have to fix this first.

Can anyone offer any advice?

3rd generation RX-7's / cib24's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS
« on: May 07, 2015, 09:47:43 PM »
Hello everyone,

I introduced myself here:

I purchased my RX-7 on 19 April and it's almost all original except for an Apexi twin intake, Fujitsubo exhaust, Blitz ZZ-R coilovers, Defi water temperature gauge, Billion VFC fan controller, a Momo steering wheel and that stupid headlight vent which I will replace at some point. It's done about 82,000 miles but mechanically it is in excellent condition. The exterior is actually pretty good barring rust on the bottom of the driver's side door (Carl at Hayward Rotary said it looks minor), rust under the rear hatch on the passenger side (looks very minor) and the fact that the car desperately needs a thorough cleaning with heavy duty soap and a clay bar followed by paint correction. The interior is in pretty good shape and should look better once I have tackled it with a heavy duty plastic cleaner followed by a few plastic rejuvination products and both front seats should ideally be reupholstered.

The RX-7 is going to replace my RX-8 as a weekend only vehicle that does about +/- 6,000 miles per year and sees the track about 10 times per year. My plan is to keep the car on the stock 99-spec twins and try to make somewhere between 300-350 bhp. Today (7 May), I took the car to Hayward Rotary for a full check-over of the engine, drivetrain, suspension, etc. and came away very pleased.

The car was compression tested with a genuine Mazda rotary tester and the starter motor was cranking at 265 RPM. Before the results for the front rotor were calculated as the car was cranking his team said it sounded very healthy. The corrected results at 250 rpm are (in bar):

Front rotor: 7.7, 7.6, 7.6

Rear rotor: 8.0, 8.0, 8.0

Carl and his team inspected the entire engine from top to bottom (except they didn't individually check each solenoid), checked the coolant and brake fluid levels, vacuum hoses, all pipe work, engine mounts, front and rear suspension and diff bushings, rotors, calipers, etc. and also took it for a test drive to ensure the car ran alright, boosted correctly, the transmission shifted properly, etc.

We had a chance to look under the car very closely once it was up in the air and we were able to confirm how clean the chassis and suspension is and I was also able to confirm that the down pipe and catalytic converter were stock units. The visual inspection picked up the following:

  • Brake Fluid reservoir cap is broken and needs to be replaced;
  • Rear turbo has the slightest oil leak. It is not dripping at all but is just a touch damp at the bottom front of it. I was advised to not worry about it for now and run it until the turbos go south sometime in the future;
  • Rear passenger-side brake disc has over heated and is scored so both rear discs will need to be replaced;
  • Passenger-side top pillowball bushing needs to be replaced;
  • Drivers-side lower pillowball bushing needs to be replaced;
  • Main differential bushing has burst and is leaking oil and needs to be replaced;
  • Catalytic converter is slightly dented but works fine;
  • Fujitsubo cat-back exhaust reduces within the muffler to about 2.5 inches rather than remaining a full 3 inches; and
  • Blitz coilovers suspension should be replaced if I want to use this car on the track.

We then took the car out for a drive (Carl was driving) and confirmed that the turbos were spooling correctly in any gear and at any time he depressed the throttle. He also said the idle was fantastic, the transmission shifted very well and that the car was very stable. He noted that one of my wheels needs to be rebalanced as there is quite a bit of vibration in the steering wheel (I have noticed this too but thought it might be the way the Momo wheel was attached) and he didn't like the coilovers.

Overall, Carl and his team were extremely impressed with the car's condition and he said that considering how well it runs and the condition of the rest of the mechanicals, if it were his car he would keep the mods light and just focus on the suspension, brakes and tires. His ideology is if it isn't broken then there is no sense in replacing it or fixing it unless you are looking to make significantly more power.

He recommended a 3 inch silenced decat, a proper 3" cat-back and a Power FC with a tune. With this he said I could expect about 300 bhp at 12-13 psi (0.83-0.9 bar). Contrary to what I have researched online, he does not recommend changing the AST if it is in good shape as he thinks most aftermarket units don't seal as well and in his experience very few RX-7s he has worked on have had the ASTs crack and start leaking. Also, at this power level he said that the stock intercooler is more than sufficient for track days as is the S8 radiator with the additional airflow from the 99 spec bumper. He also had some sympathy for rewiring the fuel pump but he didn't specifically say anything about needing to change the ignition coils.

He said if I wanted to try for up to 350 bhp on the twins then I should look into 1680CC secondary injectors, HKS down pipe and an intercooler (front mount or v mount) as a minimum but that the turbos would not last long at 1.0 bar or higher of boost when tracking the car often.

On the suspension side of things he really likes the Tein Street Flex coilovers as a good compromise for street/track use which also aren't too expensive (Ohlin's if you have the budget), uprated anti-roll bars (either Racing Beat or Cusco), stock RS brakes (but admits a good big brake kit is night and day), braded brake lines, and uprated brake pads (he prefers Hawk HP+ but advises that they will not be nice to discs and will damage wheels with all of the brake dust). For tires which will be used on the street and track he says the Federal 595 RSR tires are really good for the price, if you want to spend a bit more the Yokohama AD08s are amazing, and if you want to spend even more then he says you can't do better than the Pirelli Trofeo R's.

Overall, the visit was well worth it as I found out for certain that the car is in great mechanical condition. The next thing I have scheduled is an appointment with Super 7 Autos next week to repair the rust issues on the driver's door and the rear hatch as well as respray the following:

Driver's door - Repair rust and respray.

Rear hatch - repair rust and respray underside of the hatch.

Front bumper and lower diffuser - Respray.

Headlight covers - Remove and replace headlight air vent and respray both headlight covers.

Brake vents - Respray.

Front Passenger Side Wing - Fix flat spot and respray.

Door Mirrors - Respray both.

Body kit - Remove and respray as it desperately needs to be touched up.

Sills - Clean up when body kit is removed and if necessary respray.

Depending on the price of things I may just look into respraying the entire car but I would rather use the money saved on:

  • Reupholstering the seats;
  • Replacing all of the speakers;
  • Installing the Toad Cat 1 alarm I have brand new in a box;
  • Installing sound deadening in various locations;
  • Fixing as many interior rattles as possible;
  • Buying a few new OEM interior items to make the interior nicer;
  • Replacing all window trim, the front cowl, exterior door mirror triangles, side markers, windshield wipers, etc.;

  • Take the car for preventative rust treatment to top up the waxoyl and inject cavity wax everywhere;
  • Fix the mechanical issues that were identified above, buy new brake pads, different coilovers, stickier rubber in the right size (235/45R17 Front, 255/40R17 Rear), decat and Power FC tune;
  • Have the car aligned and geo'd;
  • Take the car to Offset Detailing for a paint correction detail/valet of the entire exterior, engine bay, interior, wheels, etc.; and
  • Finally, go to Snetterton or Oulton Park before the end of July!

New to MRC - introduce yourself / New Owner - 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS
« on: April 17, 2015, 01:49:22 PM »
I have wanted an FD for a long time and although I could afford one when I started looking for a weekend car nearly two years ago when I purchased my RX-8, I couldn't insure one because I was considered a pretty new driver in the UK (originally from the USA). After patiently waiting (ok not patiently because I spent a lot of money modifying my RX-8...) I called up my insurance company earlier this year and asked for a quote on an FD to see if things had improved. To my surprise I was insurable and it was also affordable! So, over the past couple of months I began searching religiously every day for an FD but I was really struggling to find one that met all of my criteria and I posted a thread about my troubles here:

Eventually, one popped up for sale at the end of March which looked good in the photos and after a conversation with the owner I decided to take a 3.5 hour train journey out to Western England from London to see this car in person. The car turned out to be very good, it starts up hot and cold, seems to boost correctly and it has no under body rust at all. My only gripe is the interior which although it has every panel and there are no noticeable rattles, there are scuffs on the door cards from people's feet and a couple of unwanted scratches in various places which I would like to try to sort out. It took me another two weeks to decide to purchase the car as I wanted to see a couple of other FD's which were on my list to make sure it was the right one for me.

I am now scheduled to pick it up on Sunday and I can't wait to drive it home! The car's spec is pretty original as the only modifications are Apexi intake filters, Fujisubo titanium cat-back exhaust, Blitz ZZ-R coilovers, a Defi CR water temperature gauge, a fan controller and a Momo steering wheel. The mileage is kind of high at c.81,000 but the car is in good shape so I'm not too concerned.

My first plans are:
  • take the car to Hayward Rotary for a full inspection to find out what needs replacing immediately and what may need replacing in the future;
  • take the car to a rust treatment centre and top up the waxoyl underneath and check over everywhere else and have anything that needs sorting out dealt with;
  • have the car detailed/valeted by a specialist for paint correction, interior clean-up, engine cleaning, etc;
  • take the car to Wheels-In-Motion for an alignment/geometry setup for fast road use; and
  • remove the ugly headlight vent.
During that time I will figure out what modifications I want/need to make in order to make this car a reliable weekend enjoyment/occasional track day car whilst keeping the sequential setup, A/C and battery intact. Aside from replacing the AST I am leaning towards an upgraded radiator (although I hear S8 radiators are triple core and much better than previous RX-7 radiators) and an upgraded stock location intercooler so that I can keep the A/C and battery in their stock locations. I also want to add oil temp, oil pressure and a separate boost gauge to be able to monitor everything. In addition, I'm not very interested at the moment in pushing out much more power than what it is currently making so I'm debating whether or not I should leave the stock catalytic converter on the car. I'm not sure if with the current modifications whether or not I need a remap?

Below are a few photos of the car I'm going to be picking up on Sunday:

It may (or may not) be time to consider selling my Lightning Yellow 2004 Mazda RX-8 and I wanted to at least give fellow MRC members a sneak peak prior to making any final decision.

I have owned this car since November 2013 and during my ownership I have spared no expense (seriously, I have a spreadsheet of all costs including fuel!) in keeping this car looking great and running great. I'm confident that it is in better condition than nearly every other Lightning Yellow RX-8 in the UK and I am also confident that it is one of the quickest RX-8's in the country (excluding race spec'd cars with stripped out interiors, bridge ports, race suspension, etc.). Several RX8OC and MRC members know me and have seen my car in person and can attest to it's condition.

  • 50,000 miles (actually about 49,850);
  • £285 per year to tax;
  • 231 rebuilt in January 2014 at 43,965 miles by Hayward Rotary. Engine spec is stage 2 port which is essentially a large street port with an axillary bridge port. Came with 30 months/30,000 miles warranty. 17 months and/or c.24,000 miles remaining on warranty;
  • Lightened flywheel and stock Exedy replacement clutch fitted at time of rebuild;
  • New battery with rebuild;
  • Waxoyl underbody with rebuild;
  • Alloy refurbish with rebuild (not equivalent to a professionally done refurbish but looks very good. One curb mark in rear left wheel);
  • All fluids replaced with rebuild - differential, gearbox, oil (has been changed twice since), coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid (I'm joking  :mrgreen: );
  • Genuine Mazda OEM coils with less than 9,000 miles on them;
  • 8mm blue Magnecor ignition wires fitted at time of rebuild;
  • Racing Beat header;
  • Racing Beat dual-resonated mid pipe;
  • Racing Beat cat-back exhaust;
  • Racing Beat front and rear anti-roll bars;
  • K&N filter;
  • Tein S.Tech springs;
  • Slotted standard brake rotors;
  • EBC Yellowstuff brake pads with plenty of life left;
  • 225/45R18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, good tread remaining;
  • Black leather interior in very good condition with Bose sound system. Very limited scuffs and scrapes and absolutely no new ones since I became the owner;
  • Wheels-In-Motion Alignment and Geometry service completed in October 2014;
  • Windscreen replaced in September 2014 due to adhesive breaking down. The windscreen is now fixed and has a lifetime warranty (apparently). Problem I was having is shown in this video;
  • Lots of service history receipts from before the rebuild (not that they really matter that much) in addition to every single service receipt since I took over ownership including every single petrol station receipt...A bit much? Maybe; and
  • MOT passed in October 2014 with no advisories.
Description of Condition and General Usage During My Ownership

The paint is in excellent condition for the age of the car. There are some small stone chips on the front bumper and the hood from rocks over the years but nothing noticeable unless you are looking for them. The car is 11 years old so the paint isn't brand new but overall it's very good with virtually no swirl marks or anything of that sort. One downside is that there is a noticeable dent below the passenger rear door (you will see it in the photos). Shortly after the engine was rebuilt in January 2014 I took the car to Gleam Machine and had minor paint correction and enhancement work done to bring the yellow back to life. I think the pictures below will speak for themselves.

The interior is also in very good shape with like-new carpet, like-new floor mats, leather seats with no tears, limited scratches and scuffs on interior plastics (except for the damn glove box. I have searched my entire ownership for a good used one and they don't seem to exist. Every single used glove box is scratched and I have purchased 3 of them off of eBay), and limited-to-no rattles.

The car spends most of the week sitting in a secured garage so that it doesn't have to be exposed to the harsh UK weather and is washed and detailed after almost every time I use the car on the weekends. When it is used it doesn't see short journeys (average journey is over 75 miles) it's 85% highway (which is why I average over 23 mpg) and the car is never ever shut down cold or rev'd until it is warmed up. The car exclusively runs Shell V-Power as it is part of Hayward Rotary's warranty requirements and I premix 150ml of Castrol Power-1 Racing 2T with every fill up. Hayward Rotary runs a 10w-40 semi-synthetic with their RX-8 rebuilds and thus I top up with Shell Helix HX7 10W-40 every time it's needed.

During my ownership the car has seen 5 track days at Snetterton, Cadwell Park, Oulton Park and Brands Hatch and it runs like a champ. At the track I never let the car run more than 15 minutes and the car is cooled down before coming back into the pit lane and turning the engine off. I have yet to see another Mazda RX-8 on the track that is quicker on the straights unless it has some sort of forced induction.

Price and Last Comments

I'm still deciding on price but I do not plan on letting the car go for peanuts, especially considering the condition and spec. Obviously, I'm also not unrealistic and know that I won't be getting back what I've put into this car but that's what makes the potential purchaser the lucky one.

I also WILL NOT be parting out the car. I don't have the ability to do that where I live and I really don't need the hassle of taking everything off and trying to go through the long process of selling things individually. This car doesn't deserve to end its life this way and needs to go to an owner that will care for it as much as I have.

I'm sure I'm missing something worth mentioning here so if anyone has any questions please don't hesitate to ask and I will update this post accordingly.


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