Mazda Rotary Club
Cars by Model Type => Old school Mazda's => Topic started by: Grant Monkhouse on November 07, 2010, 03:44:28 PM
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thought i would start my thread again here rather than in the members section so oither can look at it who are not full members.
To start off a few people may have seen that i was originally going for a 13b PP, however things have changed dramatically. for the good that is:Thumbs-up
After speaking to Carl a month or so back and asking how the throttle bodies and custom inlet manifold was coming along that were going to go on the PP engine. Carls response was that he needed to see me as he had something to show me, with regards to the throtle bodies.
I arranged to go see and h showed me a custom side intake manifold that looks brilliant, with showing me this he said "instead of N/A what would would you think to a Bridge port turbo?2
I thought about this for a minute, as i was currently in the process of putting together the bits for a single in my FD.
So i quickly changed my mind, all turbo bits that i have aquired are now going in the rx4 and the FD is staying as it is, and if the rx4 puts a bigger smile on my face than the FD does then the FD will have to go as i cant have 2 fast rotaries.
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trying to attach photos but it wont let me do? can some explain how to do this and i will get photos up of the car
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Well I normally upload them to photobucket (or which ever photo sharing website you want) and then use the image code from there to post into the thread on here. I find it easier than uploading straight onto here as its quite a small upload size on here.
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ok cheers, just trying to mess around with them now, moving them to different files on my laptop etc, im sure i will get some pictures on by the end of the night
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(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4213.jpg)
a few pictures of the car in primer
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4212.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4210.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4209.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4208.jpg)
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so as you can see the car has been completely shelled. and was blasted back to bare metal to remove any bits of car lepracy.
it took quite a long time to get the car to this stage but is not like this anymore, the car took nearly as long to do as it has taken me to learn how to upload photos.
just going to upload some more now.
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Fantastic progress there Grant :Thumbs-up
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Fantastic progress there Grant :Thumbs-up
You havent seen nothing yet!! just uploading to photobucket now and will get the rest up here asap.
The diff is now all together after spending all day yesterday trying to figure out what the hell i was doing!!
the diff is a combinaton of 4 cars, RX4 housing, RX4 half shafts (apperently indestructable 28 splines, only found in the 13b version of the rx4) rx7 FB diff carrier, torsen2 lsd from, something even Duane(an ossie who knows lots about mazda diffs) doesnt know what it omes out of as his japanese suppliers wont tell him. And last but not least the ring and pinion from aKIA SPORTAGE! YES YOU READ IT CORRECTLY A KIA! Giving me a silly diff ratio, i can get different ratios for the diff, from 3.9-5.1!!!
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(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4230.jpg)engine bay before top coat lacuer
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4221.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4224.jpg)
outside of car before final coat
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4229.jpg)
car after top coat and also during flatting off of any imperfections caused by stupid flies landing on the car due to being attracted to the smell of the paint!!!!!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4230.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4231.jpg)
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as you can see now the car is probably 80% finished, i say this amount because putting things like interior and drivtrain do not take anywhere near as long as prep and paint on a car
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dont know if i can continue looking im soooo jealous, i want one so bad, nice job your doing and keep us updated as much as possible:Thumbs-up
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(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4234.jpg)Now for some interesting stuff that i have been collecting slowly as and when i have the money for the stuff.
first up is the rear end, it is not finished yet as it has some holes to be drilled in the carrier to hold it in place, a disk brake conversion/upgrade, it is also to be pantedand have the leef springs put onto it along with some lowering blocks, thinking on the lines of 40mm.
Basically the rear end consists of RX4 outer casing, Rx4 half shafts, rx7 FB diff carrier, Torsen2 LSD (aquired from a very helpful person in australia, who imports these diff to oz from japan) and a kia sportage ring and pinion. i have a choice of different ratios from 3.9 to 5.1 so i can find out which works best for me and the car.
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this fuel pump will feed fuel from the fuel tank to a 2 litre swirl pot.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4236.jpg)
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slighly better picture
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4237.jpg)
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this is the swirl pot i have
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4243.jpg)
as you can see i have more than enough inlet/outlets for fuel delivery
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i nhave a bosch 044 fuel pump to deliver fuel from the swirl pot to the fpr
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4242.jpg)
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this little thing will allow me to control how much force is applied to the rear brake so i dont lock up the rears when i dont need to
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4247.jpg)
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single turbo exhaust manifold, only modification to make on this is to the wastegate pipe as the end flange is not big enough as i will be getting a Tial 600mm wastegate
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4250.jpg)
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a little something all people that want to know how their engine works etc, should have
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4252.jpg)
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to go with the datalogger, an innovate afr meter and all the gubbings to go with it
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4254.jpg)
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fpr and gauge
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4238.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4240.jpg)
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intercooler, dimensions 600x300x100
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4255.jpg)
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(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4257.jpg)
as you can see 4" thick cooler, should keep temps down nice and low
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(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4259.jpg)
another shot of the intercooler, and in the right corner is an exedy cf clutch which i have tken out of my FD because i have totalled the cf plate, replacement for this part £900 quid from exedy so it will have to do as a nice ornament for now. It wouldnt be going in the rx4 anyway as it is just not good enough, for this department i have invested in an hks twin plate drag clutch, rated by hks at 1500hp so more than good enough for the rx4.
(Many thanks to steve for the clutch by the way, has really helped me out by selling me that clutch)
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that is all i have for now but will keeping throwing the pictures up for everyone even if no one is interested, i welcome all advice on if you think i have missed something out that i need for the car or on things i have overkilled it on.
this car is going to be brilliant when it is done, even though it is big headed of me to say it, but a lot of time and effort has been put into this car and will have even more in the near future.
i will also say that i now well and truly belong to the school of old and hope to show the new schoolers a few lessons or two with this car. :3gears-lh.
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dont know if i can continue looking im soooo jealous, i want one so bad, nice job your doing and keep us updated as much as possible:Thumbs-up
No need to be jealous, i am going to try share my car with everyone, in the build and where ever i take the car too.
this car will not be for just looking at, it will be getting as much stick as i can give it so long as i can afford to put petrol in it
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This is going to be sweet! Good to see another rx4 out there getting the treatment it deserves:Thumbs-up
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Wicked - a full house RX4!!
We can all show the \'new schoolers\' how its done :)
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Yeah this is gonna be awesome. I want one, but im never gonna be able to afford one :(
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looking forward to seeing this rolling, old skool with proper turbo rotary power braaaaap
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Awesome, looking very nice project indeed :D
Shaun
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Hello number two son, just to remind you that you forgot to mention the really important bit for the RX4 that money can\'t buy. That would be me!!!!!:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle(Thanks Dad for grovelling in the .... and burning yourself, grinding yourself, cutting yourself, getting arc eye-several times- and all the other things that wonderful Dads like me do):Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle
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Hello number two son, just to remind you that you forgot to mention the really important bit for the RX4 that money can\'t buy. That would be me!!!!!:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle(Thanks Dad for grovelling in the .... and burning yourself, grinding yourself, cutting yourself, getting arc eye-several times- and all the other things that wonderful Dads like me do):Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle
ha ha
owned
keep up the good work dad:evillaugh
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I forgot to mention setting myself on fire, now that was funny:Hammer, I have the photo of my shoe in flames somewhere, I\'ll get Grant to put it up. I\'ve only got the Trans Am, my Mustang and Garys FD to build after the RX4, whatever going to do with myself after that(assuming I live that long)!!!
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Yes thankyou dad:D.
Dont forget to mention that i spend 90% of my weekends on this car, especially on the prep involved for the paint, time consuming and laborious, to get it right for that expensive mazda RX8 paint that it has been sprayed in.
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I havent mentioned the turbo i am going to be using yet so i will say it now. A Garrett GT4088, i was looking at and have been seriously debating the 4094R which is the ball bearring version, but i cant justify how much they are!!
And also i think the money i have saved on the turbo can go towards a good set of Drag racing tires, of which i need some help with on who, what and where to get some. They are not needed right now but it will be good to know what i need to be looking at, so if any body has some recomendations then feel free to post up on the thread.
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If anybody is wondering about what BHP im looking to achieve then the answer to that is, if it is faster, and scares me like the rx7 did then i will be happy, and also if it goes brap brap brap just sat there i will have a grin on my face from ear to ear all the time!
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Yeah this is gonna be awesome. I want one, but im never gonna be able to afford one :(
To be fair i dont think being able to afford one of these machines, its more of a case of if you can FIND one, as there wasnt a huge amount ever brought to this country,and from as i gather from speaking to the man that actually first owned the car, mine is a uk model and not an import! So that is a uk RX4 i have and a uk RX7! how lucky am i?!
I was very lucky to purchase this car as i was originally looking at rx3s on youtube and really wanted one but then i saw Clives car on here and then saw the one that i have now i just had to have it.
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I was very lucky to purchase this car as i was originally looking at rx3s on youtube and really wanted one but then i saw Clives car on here and then saw the one that i have now i just had to have it.
Excellent, another one poisoned along the way :D:D
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so here is the picture of when my dad set his slipper on fire from welding my car. I think before he started welding he had spilt som thinners onto his foot, common sens would dictate to GO PUT SOME BOOTS ON! but not my dad, he got the welder out and started, after thinking to himself what the hell is that burning smell?? and why is mt foot really hot, the 2 thoughts came together, shiv my foot is on fire!!!!!! run to outside tap to put it out, but take picture before hand as it is funny! :rollin:rollin:rollin:rollin:rollin
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/morephotos4709130.jpg
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Here are a few pictures of the car before we stripped it,
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/myphonepics24409171.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/myphonepics24409170.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/myphonepics24409168.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/myphonepics24409167.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/myphonepics24409172.jpg
Engine picture, oh how this will change!
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As you can see on the photos the car only has one wing mirror? I think if i can get away with i will not bother putting any on at all, but we will have to see what it looks like on some wheels without one
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You need two rear view mirrors, not sure the regs say where they have to be though ;)
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Well what i was thinking is that you have to have them on the car only if they originally came with them? I think the one that came on mine was an optional extra! LOL
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You need two rear view mirrors, not sure the regs say where they have to be though ;)
What regs. do you mean as regards to the wing mirrors?
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so here is the picture of when my dad set his slipper on fire from welding my car. I think before he started welding he had spilt som thinners onto his foot, common sens would dictate to GO PUT SOME BOOTS ON! but not my dad, he got the welder out and started, after thinking to himself what the hell is that burning smell?? and why is mt foot really hot, the 2 thoughts came together, shiv my foot is on fire!!!!!! run to outside tap to put it out, but take picture before hand as it is funny! :rollin:rollin:rollin:rollin:rollin
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/morephotos4709130.jpg
I had to put my leg out first though as it was getting rather burnt:flamed,a good job I keep a bucket full of water for just this purpose,I\'m surprised the photo is in focus as I was laughing that much!!!!:Hammer
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VOSA guidelines for MOTs... Take a look on their website :wave
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Will do, thanks- though our MOT man sort of wouldn\'t bother with something as trivial as a mirror, he kind of ignores the emissions :godso a mirror is a very minor thing!!!
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I have just read through Clives rx4 thread and have realised how important the selection of the wheels is going to be!
Now if we manage to fit the brakes on the front of the car that we have got then I am going to have to fit a minimum of 16" wheels. I will be looming for a set of wheels with as deep of a dish on the rear as I can fit, and possibly one inch smaller on the front. (width that is)
If any body wants to make some suggestion then they are mire than welcome to, im also not too sure if they will look better in a certain colour or polished?
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http://www.performancecar.co.nz/articles/1973-mazda-rx-4-no-turning-back-148#more-22916
http://www.modifiedcars.com/cars/3133/modified-mazda-rx-4-1973-pictures
http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=176740&start=0&sid=5b35f0a0ca8b2b048702aaba63c3251c
Starter for ten (googled rx4 alloy wheels)
Shaun
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2582248/1974-mazda-rx-4-sydney-au
Shaun
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2582248/1974-mazda-rx-4-sydney-au
Shaun
thats just wrong :Nono!
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Shame, get a 13B back in her she\'d be golden.
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That is a total sacrilege!
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Have done a little bit of work on the 4 this weekend, got the rear seats out from where they were being kept (in the back of the trans am with the cover blown off of it and getting soaked with rain!) gave then a clean and put them in the car and had a sit inside the car, old seats are really comfy!
Might strip the seats down and paint the metal bits as they look rather shabby!
There isn\'t a huge amount of head room in the car so anyone wanting to sit in the back that is taller than me is going to get a bad neck!
Also got the dashboard out to give it a clean up, now with the dash being older than me! It has seen better days, the dials, clocks and gauges are all fine but the vinyl dash in need of repair! A shame really as it would have been nice to leave it as it is, but I am going to have to repair it! With the repair it will still look rubbish so I am going to flat it off and get it flocked, like a lot of racing cars have done to stop the glare that comes off the dash, a bit different from stock but I think it will look really good!
I will get some pictures up of the dash and stuff in the next few days
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Right i have been doing a little work on the car these last couple of days due to not being at work, We have been working on the rear axle by adding bottom links to stop the car getting axle tramp when i try do a burnt out or accelerat hard, here is a few pictures.
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4008.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4007.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4006.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4005.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4004.jpg
As you can see there is still a bit of work to do the axle, mainly a bit of filling on painting.
before people think that it has been my dad that has done this to the axle, it was me that has made the parts out of 3mm steel and my dad did the welding due to me not having any welding skills whatsoever! and then i ground down the rough bits to make it look a bit better ready for filling and painting
For people that dont know what axle tramp is, i will explain it as simply as i can,
tramping is when you accelerate the car and theand the axle tries to turn forwards and so causes the leef springs to twist, and when they reach a point where the leef spring will not twist any further it springs or jumps back causing the wheels to jump, the bottom links or top links/ antitramp bars hold the axle where it is and stop the leef springs twisting so that the power being delivered to the rear end goes throught the wheels rather than the springs allowing the wheels to break traction rather than breaking the leef sprigs/car.
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here are a few pictures of the brakes which will going on the car once i have had some bits redrilled to a five stud pattern and made some brackets to hold the calipers in there new places.
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4011.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4010.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4009.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4003.jpg
these are the calipers and disks from the rear of an FB which we salvaged from a scrapped FB Elford rx7. These are going on the rear of the rx4 as with potentially 4 times more power than standard thid car is going to need some decent brakes on it.
If your wondering why most of the bits are in red, it is an antirust paint so that things dont go back to dust whilst nstored at the end of the garden.
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4002.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4001.jpg
now here are the more important stoppers for the front, as the most keen eye will see these are calipers from an FD, hence why i will need 16" wheels minimum, which we will be mounting on tha front struts once we have modified them to be a little lower as a standard rx4 sits rather high at the front, "a bit like a boat in the water" is what clive described it as.
Hopefully we will squeeze these stoppers onto the car and to make sure i dont over break the rear end i have a brake bias controller to reduce the braking effort on the rear end.
I have forgotten to take pictures of the dash board, so i will do that tommorrow, as it will be good to show the before and after shots of the dash as i am going to be getting it flocked.
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I think i have forgotten to metion that the car is going to be running fuel injection rather than a carby turbo setup, far simpler in my view. I have got another apexi, which is currently on my brothers FD, which is going to be used on the rx4.
All i need now i think is a gear box which i have already found from kev(20B PP Cosmo) and my engine from Carl.
Obviously there will things like fuel line, brake line, silicone piping, oh and a radiator and some slim line fans, but i think santa might bring them.:Santa
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Heres Daddy thinking the tramp Grants talking about was his old dad and his flaming slippers!!
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here are a few pictures of the brakes which will going on the car once i have had some bits redrilled to a five stud pattern and made some brackets to hold the calipers in there new places.
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4011.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4010.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4009.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4003.jpg
these are the calipers and disks from the rear of an FB which we salvaged from a scrapped FB Elford rx7. These are going on the rear of the rx4 as with potentially 4 times more power than standard thid car is going to need some decent brakes on it.
If your wondering why most of the bits are in red, it is an antirust paint so that things dont go back to dust whilst nstored at the end of the garden.
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4002.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/holidayandrx4001.jpg
now here are the more important stoppers for the front, as the most keen eye will see these are calipers from an FD, hence why i will need 16" wheels minimum, which we will be mounting on tha front struts once we have modified them to be a little lower as a standard rx4 sits rather high at the front, "a bit like a boat in the water" is what clive described it as.
Hopefully we will squeeze these stoppers onto the car and to make sure i dont over break the rear end i have a brake bias controller to reduce the braking effort on the rear end.
I have forgotten to take pictures of the dash board, so i will do that tommorrow, as it will be good to show the before and after shots of the dash as i am going to be getting it flocked.
Are you running S2 or S3 FB rear brakes? The S3 will give you vented.
The FD calipers should fit behind 15 inch wheels if you run the FC discs. It depends which discs you plan to run with them.
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Are you running S2 or S3 FB rear brakes? The S3 will give you vented.
i have got the calipers from an elford converted 1st gen so im not sure if they are s2 or s3? i will check tommorrow when i can see in the light as to if they are vented.
The FD calipers should fit behind 15 inch wheels if you run the FC discs. It depends which discs you plan to run with them.
if i can use fc disks then i will do that, concentrating on the rear at the moment. Getting it all together and hopefully into the car so we can get it on some wheels and be able to move it around better than on the trolley its on at the moment.
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S2 are 110 PCD and solid. S3 are 114.3 PCD and vented.
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S2 are 110 PCD and solid. S3 are 114.3 PCD and vented.
bonus they are vented!
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Quick heads up. MDA are offering a 20% discount on Dash Flocking if ordered before 8th Jan.
Shaun
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should be something very different when done!!
Personally id get rid of the facet i have never seen them work well - if its going to be a full house engine with gt42 etc get something like a carter gold or black..
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should be something very different when done!!
Personally id get rid of the facet i have never seen them work well - if its going to be a full house engine with gt42 etc get something like a carter gold or black..
Got to agree with you there. I was told that the facet would be ok. That turned out to be tosh.I was then told to use 2 of them side by side.Thing is you need one way valves on them to stop them pushing against each other as one will always be stronger than the other.We discovered that so running 2 was a load of tosh also. I now run carter pump with no issues(or tosh)
Cheers
Brian
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Quick heads up. MDA are offering a 20% discount on Dash Flocking if ordered before 8th Jan.
Shaun
Cheers Shaun I will give them a ring
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Got to agree with you there. I was told that the facet would be ok. That turned out to be tosh.I was then told to use 2 of them side by side.Thing is you need one way valves on them to stop them pushing against each other as one will always be stronger than the other.We discovered that so running 2 was a load of tosh also. I now run carter pump with no issues(or tosh)
Cheers
Brian
Cheers for the advice kiwi and 12at, where do I get these carter golds/black from? Will one be good enough? As I am only using it as a pickup for the swirl pot?
I\'m going to be running a gt4088 which is coming in January. I have been told I could run a gt42 but they are really expensive and I need to learn how to drive the car with a reasonable turbo to start with and not one of those monsters :eek:
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i went and got this today to start working out how we are going to mount the FD disk and caliper onto the front struts
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/2ea2920c.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/90c37922.jpg)
now these are considerably bigger than the standard rx4 discs, so hopefully one of my dads friends who write programmes for cnc machines will be able to throw something together and get them cut out of a nice piece of ally.
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get in finally figured out why the pictures werent coming up, just the direct link. simple solution but just me being an idiot and not trying hard enough!:rollin
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I googled for my carter but Holley are good and I think Demon Tweeks do them now with the regulator
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Are they FC or FD discs you went with?
Templates are available for the FC discs.
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I googled for my carter but Holley are good and I think Demon Tweeks do them now with the regulator
cheers i will have a look in tmy demon tweeks catalogue which came last week, starnge really as i cant remember signing up for it?!
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Are they FC or FD discs you went with?
Templates are available for the FC discs.
that is an fd disk as if we cant get them on the struts with a custom hub, then i can use on my car RX7 FD so i wont have wasted any money and have the trouble of selling some fc disks. but if we cant get the FD disks to fit then i will buy some FC disks and then have a look at getting them to fit.
wher are these templates available from the FC disks? as they cant be that much different? as they both use the same stud pattern? 114.4?
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I googled for my carter but Holley are good and I think Demon Tweeks do them now with the regulator
is this
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Fuel_System/Fuel_Pumps/Holley_External_Electric_Fuel_Pump/1542/3311
the carter black you mean?
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Thats the holley and it will do the same job but I have also used these guys and they are good also
http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/holley-fuel-pumps-and-regulators-151-c.asp
Brian
is this
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Fuel_System/Fuel_Pumps/Holley_External_Electric_Fuel_Pump/1542/3311
the carter black you mean?
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Thats the holley and it will do the same job but I have also used these guys and they are good also
http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/holley-fuel-pumps-and-regulators-151-c.asp
Brian
Brilliant, cheers. noticed on the deemontweaks site they do a red blue and black, different flow rates i think
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heres the differences
- RED Pump - The Holley RED pump has a maximum delivery pressure of 7 Psi and a maximum flow rate of 97 Gallons Per Hour meaning that a regulator is not required. The RED pump is not suitable for use with Methanol or Alcohol fuels.
Ideal for mildly modified engines.
- BLUE Pump - The Holley BLUE Pump has a maximum delivery pressure of 14 Psi and a maximum flow rate of 110 Gallons Per Hour. Included is a Holley regulator which is adjustable from 4.5 - 9 Psi. The BLUE pump is not suitable for use with Methanol or Alcohol fuels.
Ideal for heavily modified road or race engines.
- BLACK Pump - The Holley BLACK Pump has a maximum delivery pressure of 14 Psi and a maximum flow rate of 140 Gallons Per Hour. It is recommended that a regulator is used with this pump. The BLACK Pump is suitable for use with Methanol and Alcohol fuels as well as petrol.
Ideal for very high horsepower applications.
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The holley red is ok for a N/A engine I am told and the Carter black has the same flow rates ( + - ) a tiny smidgen not that you would notice
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Are they FC or FD discs you went with?
Templates are available for the FC discs.
Where are these templates available from?
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Where are these templates available from?
I have some mounts for FC/FD calipers and FC rotors to RX2/3/4. They are off the car. I have the templates too.
They are available on another forum whose name isn\'t allowed to be mentioned here.
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I have some mounts for FC/FD calipers and FC rotors to RX2/3/4. They are off the car. I have the templates too.
They are available on another forum whose name isn\'t allowed to be mentioned here.
Email memthe site and I will have a look, grant.monkhouse@hotmail.co.uk I have drawn up some of my own brackets at the moment, I thought it would be hard but was quite easy once I started measuring and drawing. I am however going to be using rx7 fb front struts. So I have based my drawing around the measurements and fixing points to these struts but getting other things to use that people have already accurately made will be a massive help.
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that is an fd disk as if we cant get them on the struts with a custom hub, then i can use on my car RX7 FD so i wont have wasted any money and have the trouble of selling some fc disks. but if we cant get the FD disks to fit then i will buy some FC disks and then have a look at getting them to fit.
wher are these templates available from the FC disks? as they cant be that much different? as they both use the same stud pattern? 114.4?
They are different. Put a pair side by side and you will see what I\'m talking about.
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Email memthe site and I will have a look, grant.monkhouse@hotmail.co.uk (grant.monkhouse@hotmail.co.uk) I have drawn up some of my own brackets at the moment, I thought it would be hard but was quite easy once I started measuring and drawing. I am however going to be using rx7 fb front struts. So I have based my drawing around the measurements and fixing points to these struts but getting other things to use that people have already accurately made will be a massive help.
You won\'t have access to the website. Need to be a member.
If you run FC discs, you don\'t need to make up hubs. You modify your exisiting hubs.
Brackets look like this:
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Mazda%20RX2%20Red/2010_1009shandy0002.jpg)
But I dunno why you don\'t just buy the kit from RESpeed if you\'re gonna run FB struts.
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You won\'t have access to the website. Need to be a member.
If you run FC discs, you don\'t need to make up hubs. You modify your exisiting hubs.
Brackets look like this:
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Mazda%20RX2%20Red/2010_1009shandy0002.jpg)
But I dunno why you don\'t just buy the kit from RESpeed if you\'re gonna run FB struts.
If i buy everything then the car then i am not essentially building the car myself, although i am not too bothered about spending what ever amount it takes to rebuild the car to the standard i want i still have to think about how much money i spend on the thing because at the end of the day it will only be a toy, a very expensive toy, and if i spend $200 on those brackets and $200 dollars on the adjustable top mounts i am going to need from respeed aswell, due to the camber being throw out due to the 3" drop, add on shipping import duty and tax, might aswell call it £400 then im going to need some FC hubs and discs, £150?? then i will have to adapt the fc hubs as i want to run fd dics with the fd calipers
(i know its not necessary but its always good to have something different rather than going the tried and tested route)
Another example of this is that of the choice of port on the engine, i could have gone for a huge street port and gained the same peak HP but i wanted a either a bridge or a PP from the start of this build as i wanted the car to go BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP, obviously there are also gains with the bridge that i am having in that a bridge will help spool the turbo a little earlier and give me an increase in mid range power, but this wasnt the deciding factor for the port, the BRAP was:D:D:D.
I may not be successful in getting the hubs and brackets made myself and go the FC route anyway but with the FD caliper. BUT if i do i will show people that it can be done and will hopefully make my car stand out from the rest, not that there are many rx4\'s over here in the uk anyway.
I hope i dont come across as being stubborn or ignorant but it would be good to have something on my car that others have not.
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well said that man:god
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god bless australia !
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god bless australia !
????????????????
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(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/e6fa106b.jpg)Nothing much been done on the car as of late but i have got these little bits
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/659319b5.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/6acb8fa8.jpg)
A nice new set of Magnecor leads, A HKS Twin Power (DLI) and wiring harness adapter so i dont have to mess around joining cables, just plug it in.
I got the twin power because i want to run water injection and should provide a strong enough spark to help burn the water.:Thumbs-up
Now i need to look at some new coils??!!
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I have just used the given speed in any gear calculator from one of the stickys and got some good figures from my potential setup.
What does everyone think?
RPM 1st Gear 2nd Gear 3rd Gear 4th Gear 5th Gear 6th Gear
500 2 4 5 8 11 .
600 3 5 7 9 13 .
700 3 5 8 11 15 .
800 4 6 9 12 17 .
900 4 7 10 14 19 .
1000 4 8 11 15 21 .
1100 5 8 12 17 23 .
1200 5 9 13 18 25 .
1300 6 10 14 20 28 .
1400 6 11 15 21 30 .
1500 7 11 16 23 32 .
1600 7 12 18 24 34 .
1700 7 13 19 26 36 .
1800 8 14 20 27 38 .
1900 8 14 21 29 40 .
2000 9 15 22 31 42 .
2100 9 16 23 32 45 .
2200 10 17 24 34 47 .
2300 10 17 25 35 49 .
2400 11 18 26 37 51 .
2500 11 19 27 38 53 .
2600 11 20 29 40 55 .
2700 12 20 30 41 57 .
2800 12 21 31 43 59 .
2900 13 22 32 44 62 .
3000 13 23 33 46 64 .
3100 14 23 34 47 66 .
3200 14 24 35 49 68 .
3300 14 25 36 50 70 .
3400 15 26 37 52 72 .
3500 15 27 38 53 74 .
3600 16 27 40 55 76 .
3700 16 28 41 56 79 .
3800 17 29 42 58 81 .
3900 17 30 43 60 83 .
4000 18 30 44 61 85 .
4100 18 31 45 63 87 .
4200 18 32 46 64 89 .
4300 19 33 47 66 91 .
4400 19 33 48 67 93 .
4500 20 34 49 69 96 .
4600 20 35 50 70 98 .
4700 21 36 52 72 100 .
4800 21 36 53 73 102 .
4900 21 37 54 75 104 .
5000 22 38 55 76 106 .
5100 22 39 56 78 108 .
5200 23 39 57 79 110 .
5300 23 40 58 81 113 .
5400 24 41 59 82 115 .
5500 24 42 60 84 117 .
5600 25 42 61 85 119 .
5700 25 43 63 87 121 .
5800 25 44 64 89 123 .
5900 26 45 65 90 125 .
6000 26 45 66 92 127 .
6100 27 46 67 93 130 .
6200 27 47 68 95 132 .
6300 28 48 69 96 134 .
6400 28 48 70 98 136 .
6500 28 49 71 99 138 .
6600 29 50 72 101 140 .
6700 29 51 74 102 142 .
6800 30 52 75 104 144 .
6900 30 52 76 105 146 .
7000 31 53 77 107 149 .
7100 31 54 78 108 151 .
7200 32 55 79 110 153 .
7300 32 55 80 111 155 .
7400 32 56 81 113 157 .
7500 33 57 82 114 159 .
7600 33 58 83 116 161 .
7700 34 58 85 118 163 .
7800 34 59 86 119 166 .
7900 35 60 87 121 168 .
8000 35 61 88 122 170 .
8100 35 61 89 124 172 .
8200 36 62 90 125 174 .
8300 36 63 91 127 176 .
8400 37 64 92 128 178 .
8500 37 64 93 130 180 .
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Got my rear antiroll bar kit today. Bought from a company in the states, all bits are there and it\'s a straight bolt in kit, and came with instructions which I wasn\'t expecting!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/905e2c92.jpg)
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Got my rear antiroll bar kit today. Bought from a company in the states, all bits are there and it\'s a straight bolt in kit, and came with instructions which I wasn\'t expecting!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/905e2c92.jpg)
If i buy everything then the car then i am not essentially building the car myself
(i know its not necessary but its always good to have something different rather than going the tried and tested route)
:rollin
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Alright then smarty pants. If you want to become a little picky shiv, then if you remember we were talking about the brakes when I said the statement above was I not? And seen as though this was a very cheap kit why would I go to the trouble of making it? And I wouldn\'t know where to start with making the antiroll bar kit seen as though the car did not originally have an anti roll bar kit, and I do not want to cut and drill into the body of the car to try and get something that was not made for the car to fit.
Whereas with the brakes as what we were originally talking about, the brakes were already on the car when I got them and I have obtained the other bits from owning other cars, an elford turbo FB of which I got the front struts from.
And just to let you know I think I have worked out the best way to get FD disks and calipers onto the front of the car using all of the bearings from the FB struts. And it will certainly be cheaper than having to buy FC hubs and disks:Thumbs-up
Also tool if you dont have anything constructive to say then don\'t say it so to not fill my thread with irrelevant replies
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tool is correct in what he says. spend the money in the right places. that kit is pointless anyway
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Put it on. If it works or not (and by putting it on you will find out) It will look good also
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tool is correct in what he says. spend the money in the right places. that kit is pointless anyway
Why is it pointless? Surely it will aid in the cars handling? I understand to spend the money in the right places but I can save bits here and there in things I can do then surely that is the best thing?
I won\'t be driving this car around a race track but surely an antiroll bar will help the handling on the roads? Stop it rolling?
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Put it on. If it works or not (and by putting it on you will find out) It will look good also
I agree totally. This item took a serious amount of trawling through the Internet to find so it\'s going on wether it helps or hinders the car.:D
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I\'m just amused that one minute you say you don\'t want to buy everything for the car and the next you have bought a roll bar kit.
I\'ve converted leaf sprung rear axles before (e.g. fitted a 4.11 LSD disc brake rear end into a KE35 Corolla to take a 3T-GTE). The sway bar won\'t add anything. There\'s much more important things to do than worry about axle tramp and body roll imho when setting up the axle.
It don\'t matter to me what setup you run. I offered some advice. You don\'t want it, fine. I\'ll let all the others on here who know the oldschool rotors so well step in. But don\'t post stuff on a public forum and get your knickers in a twist when someone pulls you up on it, eh?
E_X_I_L_E is the home of oldschool rotors
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Ok Tool I thank you for the advice, any advice that I get is taken on board as I have never rebuilt a car that is older than me. I am 25. Let alone an old school rotor.
To learn things anybody must apply the theory, often learnt from the Internet, into practice and learn from there mistakes?
Would you take something for granted without going out and trying it, questioning the theory behind it?
I would prefer to convert the rear end from leaf springs to coil overs but to do that would I not need to chop and cut the chassis? As I don\'t want to cut such a rare car.
Oh I don\'t wear knickers. A jock strap is more comfy!
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Wo there people :(,
If you look at my own old skool RX-4 you will see that along the way I changed my mind about my project,
At one stage I was going to go the big wheel big brake route but changed my mind along the way and went for a different wheel with the same rolling radius as stock,
Point being with projects like these things change along the way and if somebody wants to alter or buy something for their own car then who are we to ridicule them,
Mr Tool not sure why you wanted to throw a hand grenade in on this thread but it\'s sure not welcome on this site :Hammer,
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Thanks Clive. I don\'t want to cause arguments and I do appreciate Tools Input.
:Ladys-man
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If you want to be picky then take your anti roll bar off the car(front and back) and then drive the thing(if you can),then see why we are doing the mods we are. If you build a car like this then you put everything necessary on the car while its stripped. Anti roll bars are there for a purpose, thats why we are putting the bloody thing on.
I might point out that I put a post up a long time ago on several rotary websites asking for advice from people and got .... all from anyone in this country. Advice came from a number of experts in Australia and the States who were all enthusiastic about what me and Grant are doing and bent over backwards to give their very welcome advice. One of those bits of advice was to put a ....ing anti roll bar on the rear of the car, much the same advice I got from Mustang handling experts in the States which is why my Mustang has anti roll bars front and rear.
We are trying to do a little bit of our own thing here and thats why I\'ve spent all day on a lathe modifying front hubs so that we can put FD calipers on the front of this car. Grants idea and my engineering expertise.When we\'ve got the setup right then I will have new hubs cnc\'d from steel.
As for someones comment on there being lots of other things to do with a live rear axle(with leaf springs) other than put traction bars on it, well, smartarse,the floor is yours.What do you suggest, maybe an FD rear axle? Hmm, have to put the tie rods somewhere. Coil springs? Hmm, now then, we\'ll just chop a very rare car up and do that. Maybe torsion bar suspension? Or Air suspension? We are trying to keep the car as much as possible an \'Old School Car\', theres a clue in the heading that the car is under on the website. There are one or two other things that we\'ll be putting on the car that we haven\'t made, things like tyres, the odd wheel bearing, petrol, ooo, brake pads etc. I\'ve said it before and I\'ll say it again, if you haven\'t got anything to positive to say then .... right off. Oh, and this is Grants old man speaking.
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Fair play to you guys doing it YOUR WAY
I was told things that I was doing on my rx7 race car would not work by those who had not done it. Guess what, it worked and it was a winner.Same for the westy and thats getting there ,but I am not sure if we will see that out in my hands again. Time will tell.
Carry on with your work I think its brill
Brian
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If you want to be picky then take your anti roll bar off the car(front and back) and then drive the thing(if you can),then see why we are doing the mods we are. If you build a car like this then you put everything necessary on the car while its stripped. Anti roll bars are there for a purpose, thats why we are putting the bloody thing on.
I might point out that I put a post up a long time ago on several rotary websites asking for advice from people and got .... all from anyone in this country. Advice came from a number of experts in Australia and the States who were all enthusiastic about what me and Grant are doing and bent over backwards to give their very welcome advice. One of those bits of advice was to put a ....ing anti roll bar on the rear of the car, much the same advice I got from Mustang handling experts in the States which is why my Mustang has anti roll bars front and rear.
We are trying to do a little bit of our own thing here and thats why I\'ve spent all day on a lathe modifying front hubs so that we can put FD calipers on the front of this car. Grants idea and my engineering expertise.When we\'ve got the setup right then I will have new hubs cnc\'d from steel.
As for someones comment on there being lots of other things to do with a live rear axle(with leaf springs) other than put traction bars on it, well, smartarse,the floor is yours.What do you suggest, maybe an FD rear axle? Hmm, have to put the tie rods somewhere. Coil springs? Hmm, now then, we\'ll just chop a very rare car up and do that. Maybe torsion bar suspension? Or Air suspension? We are trying to keep the car as much as possible an \'Old School Car\', theres a clue in the heading that the car is under on the website. There are one or two other things that we\'ll be putting on the car that we haven\'t made, things like tyres, the odd wheel bearing, petrol, ooo, brake pads etc. I\'ve said it before and I\'ll say it again, if you haven\'t got anything to positive to say then .... right off. Oh, and this is Grants old man speaking.
This will be the first and last time I respond to you Monkhouse senior. I don\'t appreciate your tone.
Try taking off my front and rear sway bars? What a silly comment. Besides, I only have a front sway on my RX2.
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/003.jpg)
R100 to RX4 were not fitted with rear sway bars for a reason. See below stage II modifications from:
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/006.jpg)
What diameter is the bar itself? What diff are you planning on running? Standard ratios show below:
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/016.jpg)
The most important and basic modifications have not been covered. Urethane bushes (all available for purchase in the UK). Reset and strengthened leaf springs. Uprated shocks (or at least new ones). If you want the car to handle, you have to get the arse down. The lower the better imho. You\'ll need to reset the leaf springs (I don\'t like lowering blocks) and add extra leaves or get some reverse eye leaf springs (hard to find).
If you\'re a Mustang/V8 owner, I\'m sure you know what slider bars are.
How low you go then depends on what wheels you want to run and what will fit under the arches. What PCD are you going to use? The RX7 S3 discs you have are 4x114.3. The standard 4x110 leaves you with few options for finding wheels. You will more than likely end up with FWD offsets.
As you previously stated, you have chosen to run FD discs. You will need to run 17 inch wheels (you could scrape by on 16s but it will be tight and require further mods to the calipers if the wheels don\'t clear them). You further restrict your wheel options too.
If you want to improve the handling of the car, the biggest gains are to be made from modifying the front. See specs below and some mods that can be done with RX4 front struts (although you won\'t be using them):
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/001.jpg)
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/003.jpg)
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/005.jpg)
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/007.jpg)
Some major improvements can be made to the geometry see below:
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/012.jpg)
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/004.jpg)
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/009.jpg)
Parts are available if you know where to look:
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/013.jpg)
A bigger front sway bar will definitely help. Spend the money on that. The biggest improvements on the car are shown above. In all honesty, I don\'t think you\'ll notice any change from fitting the rear sway bar. And for the record, I never said don\'t fit it. I just said I don\'t think you\'ll see any real gains. I have done this conversion before and the car had immense handling with or without it.
To make myself clear, I never said don\'t do this or don\'t do that. Your way? Good one Brian. The REspeed parts are very good quality. I have some of their kit. I just offered an opinion. More than most people on here.
FD rear axles? Air suspension? Etc. More silly comments. I don\'t even know why you started going on about this.
As for not getting much help from the UK, what can I say. They didn\'t get many of these cars and very few people know them. But, when I do offer some advice (which you apparently want), you become rude and offensive. There\'s no need for that.
I think it says a lot that your club President (who owns an RX4) doesn\'t offer much advice but is clearly watching the thread and has the time to comment when E_X_I_L_E is mentioned. Where\'s the comments on the tirade of abuse from Monkhouse senior? I thought this was a family forum? And the other club has moved on from grenades (wink wink).
I don\'t think this site (or most other UK sites) can offer much advice on your car, which is why I don\'t spend a lot of time here. I use other sources. There are cars actively being built and modified on the other site. I have happily provided advice and parts to other RX4 owners in the UK too (you know who you are).
My local Mazda dealer is an enthusiast. He has an RX5 in the showroom. he has a mint restored RX4 coupe and an R100 shell he bought off VW that they had in the late 60s for corporate espionage. He also has a shed full of parts.
I\'m not claiming to know it all here, but I have also done a lot of research and spent time with a number of these cars. I am building one of mine atm.
As for the post about mph from a sticky (which noone responded to); post up a link to the sticky and provide the information you entered so it can be discussed. I can\'t say anything at this point untilI know what figures you were working from.
Anyway, good luck with the build Monkhouse junior.
TOOL
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I have removed the swaybar on my Gen1 RX7 for better handling.
With one fitted, you can get snap oversteer - not something I want in a 450bhp (potential) car, without one you get gradual break away under power when cornering. Better tyres and sorted shocks/springs give you much higher grip than standard and will only accentuate the above issues.
You mentioned previously not getting much assistance from the UK, but that doesn\'t mean you should disregard it when it does arrive - amusingly though, sometimes from people not from the UK..
Good luck with your build - a well sorted \'4 is a thing of beauty. :cool
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god bless australia !
Dont understand? For an explanation (sortof) visit his youtube channel.
http://www.youtube.com/user/kagoshimadavid#p/a/u/1/PTQM6WX9_kY
Most of the video\'s have now been pulled, but this one is still kinda odd...
If the mods want to regulate any users - it should be this guy :)
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As we are now suitably impressed by everyones knowledge can we now not kill this thread with any more my dads bigger than your dads comments (sorry for the pun) or this thread will be killed off and if your real rotary enthusiasts you won\'t want this to happen,
Guys if you still want to poke each other with sticks please take this off elsewhere away from here.
Happy new year.
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I\'ll put this one last post up then this thread can be removed as far as I\'m concerned.Both myself and Grant are genuinely grateful for any and all advice from people who know more than we do,this is the reason why we ask. What I will not put up with is the .... taking and sarcastic remarks from certain people who like to sit in front of their keyboards. Why the rest of you on MRC put up with this crap from those certain people is beyond me. I\'ve said it before and I\'ll say it one last time, if you don\'t have anything constructive to say then say nothing.
I asked Grant not to put anything up because of the .....y remarks that seem inevitable on here, this is why I have not posted anything for months. I\'ll personally be glad when he gets shut of his Mazdas. One last thing, I have been in touch with Drtool and thanked him for his advice, my sarcastic remarks weren\'t directed at him and I\'m man enough to publicly apologise for causing offence.
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I got the figures from the standard FD gearbox ratios as that is what I am going to be using.
My diff ratio is 4.672-1 ( I am using an FB diff carrier with a torsion2 LSD and the ring gear and crown wheel from a KIA sportage)
Max RPM will be 8500 hopefully
Wheel size I think I put in as 225/45/16\'s but I would have to check that avian as I wasn\'t too sure if that worked out close to the standard tyre size.
The sticky is in the general tech. Section.
A number of people have said I should have a 3.9 ratio diff but I don\'t want the gears to go on forever and I don\'t want the car geared for high speed
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Well done guys, were back on track :driving:driving
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My turbo should be here at the end of the month! Can\'t wait. GT4088!
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Just read through your build, looks great. :D
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Just read through your build, looks great. :D
Thanks, hopefully within the next month the car will come on a lot more, rear leaf springs are away getting reversed to lower the back to go with lowered front, putting the front shocks together aswell.
Will be ready for the engine to be dropped in then with gear box and then onto wiring and intercooler and radiator bits.
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can anyone see what modifications i have done to leaf springs?
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/66a507cd.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/7afddeb9.jpg)
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Reversed the eyes.
What was the damage and who supplied them? PM me if you don\'t want to post in public.
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Correct. Technically they just reversed the bend in the spring as they couldn\'t gaurentee that they could get the eyes the same diameters.
Got a company in rotheram to do it, only cost £70 which I thought was fine. Much easier than trying to find some standard reverse eyes.
The company can make any type of leaf spring, and if I require an extra one to make them stiffer I will be going to them.
Hopefully this will drop the back end of the car nicely to match the huge drop at the front.
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Also got myself an rx4 maintenance and tune up book off the Internet. Really interestin book. It covers from r100 to the Cosmo, as most of the setup were the same.
The turbo has not arrived yet, which I\'m a bit miffed about! Come on Owens! I want my turbo!
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Correct. Technically they just reversed the bend in the spring as they couldn\'t gaurentee that they could get the eyes the same diameters.
Got a company in rotheram to do it, only cost £70 which I thought was fine. Much easier than trying to find some standard reverse eyes.
The company can make any type of leaf spring, and if I require an extra one to make them stiffer I will be going to them.
Hopefully this will drop the back end of the car nicely to match the huge drop at the front.
Then they\'ve disassembled the springs, bent the top leaf back and slapped it back together.
Extra leaves make a world of difference when lowering. Worth doing.
What about the links? Slider bars?
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Then they\'ve disassembled the springs, bent the top leaf back and slapped it back together.
Extra leaves make a world of difference when lowering. Worth doing.
What about the links? Slider bars?
No they have heated the spring up and re-rolled it the opposite way, i
only gave them the top spring, as i disassembled them myself, as i didnt want them to cheat bend it by clamping it all together, so if i took it apart it would just go back the way it was,
their business is springs for all kinds of vehicles and classic cars etc. so i would hope they dont slap the springs together without bending it properly
the leafs have been heated up, re-rolled, and also shot peened
what do you mean the links and slider bars?
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No they have heated the spring up and re-rolled it the opposite way, i
only gave them the top spring, as i disassembled them myself, as i didnt want them to cheat bend it by clamping it all together, so if i took it apart it would just go back the way it was,
their business is springs for all kinds of vehicles and classic cars etc. so i would hope they dont slap the springs together without bending it properly
the leafs have been heated up, re-rolled, and also shot peened
what do you mean the links and slider bars?
I think we\'re talking about the same thing. Just sticking it in a press and bending it (with or without heat) gives the same effect.
I put 2 extra leaves in a Toyota once. It needed it to prevent the car from hitting the shortened bumpstops. It was damn low but fully certified by NZHRA.
How much lower is the car?
Are you sticking with the standard rear links? Did you look into fitting slider bars? I mentioned them previously.
I am using a company in Sheffield. They can do a custom set of coils for £45 a corner.
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I think we\'re talking about the same thing. Just sticking it in a press and bending it (with or without heat) gives the same effect.
I put 2 extra leaves in a Toyota once. It needed it to prevent the car from hitting the shortened bumpstops. It was damn low but fully certified by NZHRA.
How much lower is the car?
Are you sticking with the standard rear links? Did you look into fitting slider bars? I mentioned them previously.
I am using a company in Sheffield. They can do a custom set of coils for £45 a corner.
I think the rear will be 35-40mm lower, and the front is about 2.5 inches, but the rx4 rides really high at the front so needs a big drop to look righ i think, going to have adjustable top mounts on the front struts to correct the camber with dropping the car so low at the front.
i am hopefully getting some rear links made up, once the rear end is back in i will measure them up, draw how i want them to look and take my designs to my CAD friend to programme them to be machined from ally or steel?? not sure yet.
Not going to be putting slider bars on the car, only have a basic understanding of them. Would be nice of you to explain the concept of them if you dont mind?
I think i know the company in sheffield you are using, i saw them when i was working out what i was doing with front suspension on mine.
Are you local to sheffield? Do you have any pictures of your car that you dont mind sharing? Would be nice to see it. If you do then i will give you my email rather than putting them up here?
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Send me your email address.
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very nice build there. just something from own previous experience, i maxed the same i/c you are using out at 380 bhp atw\'s. i\'m not sure of other peoples experiences with them. You should be looking at more than that.
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very nice build there. just something from own previous experience, i maxed the same i/c you are using out at 380 bhp atw\'s. i\'m not sure of other peoples experiences with them. You should be looking at more than that.
Really? What was the limiting factor? Would it just not flow the air through it? At what boost did it max out?
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Little update today but no pictures until I take some.
I decidedthat I don\'t want to use the steering box on the car as 4.5 turns lock to lock was far too much! So I ordered a steering rack which arrived today from one of the rally sites, it\'s not meant for an rx4 but will work well when I get a couple more pieces that will be full adjustable. And the best bit about the steering rack is that it is only 2.4 turns lock to lock. Should be better if I end up going sideways accidentally, and with the rack it also frees up some space for where the down pipe from my turbo will be going.
Which brings me to my other new toy. My turbo is now at home waiting for an engine, a BorgWarner S300SX3. It is BW earners equivalent to the Garret GT 4094 but way cheaper! Oh and is physically bigger in size as I had them side by side over at AET, and as we all know Size is what counts. Lol.
Have also been given some informfrom AET about the new EFR range from BW, definately something im looking to get once I start seeking bigger HP and a car that is very scary. Ha.
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Right well yesterday i decided that i was going to make the car lighter.
My tools of choice
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/4fdd8b95.jpg)
Ended up with a big pile of this,
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/fccf8466.jpg)
This rubbish that Mazda put in for sound deadening weighs around 15KG!!! WTF!! I was going to leave it in there as i couldnt be bothered taking it out of the car when we first stripped the car, however it was one of those things that if i didnt do it now i would have been taking the interior out to remove in the future.
and so i ended up with it looking like this inside,
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/47331b39.jpg)
I have got some really tough paint, that is for outside metal fences wich gives 15 years free rust apperently, which i will put on the floor to make it look nice and tidy.
i dont know if you can see in the picture but there are areas on the floor where we have welded in stronger and thicker pieces of metal to strengthen the chassis rails for where the 2 link/antitramp bars are going to be attached to the underside of the car.
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and heres my new steering rack to replace the crappy steering box.
2.4 turns lock to lock!!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/9b24da9a.jpg)
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Looking good Grant.
Deffo a good idea removing the sound deadening on a drag car :D
Whats the steering rack off ?
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Looking good Grant.
Deffo a good idea removing the sound deadening on a drag car :D
Whats the steering rack off ?
Left hand drive MK2 escort, so iv got to flippy uppy turn aroundy it so that i works right, Escorts rack is normally in front of the steering whereas rx4 is from behind.
I got it from Rally Design, both Clive and Ray have pointed me towards there for things. If i had found that website and looked through their catalogue before i stated messing around with my car i would have saved time and lots of money by just treating the car as though it was an escort!!
there is a million things already made for thos cars!! They even do 6 Pot caliper brakes for the them, with all the bits to bolt on.
I bet if i sarted building an rx3 with escort components now i would finish it before this one!! :Giggle:Giggle:rollin:rollin:rollin:rollin
I spoke to Carl last week about my car turbo etc, asked him how he was as i had seen he had been poorly, and we had a word about the potential of this car and this is what he said,
"im not joking Grant, seriously im not trying to put you off but you do realise that this car is going to be scarily quick!! the engine is going to be more than what the car can handle"
I AGREED.
WHICH HAS GOT ME THINKING THAT WILL IT BE A GOOD IDEA TO BUILD A CAGE?? BUT STILL KEEPING THE INTERIOR ETC!!
DECISION DECISIONS!!
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Time for a nice custom cage :D
Wonder if that steering rack would work with a 1st gen ??
Shaun
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Time for a nice custom cage :D
Wonder if that steering rack would work with a 1st gen ??
Shaun
I would say yes. There are a couple of things you would have to do to get it to fit but I\'m sure anything is possible. There are all sorts adjustable bits to make it work for what you want. There are even extension pieces you can get for if it is too short for your car.
He\'ll I bet it would even work on an fd if you tried! Cheap as peanuts aswell! If I had known about all this stuff to start with I would have made it for my car to handle most awesome. Lol.
I\'m going to have a think about a cage. Will be a bit awkward though as I would want it to retain the pillarless look. Which would mean certain parts welded in but the cross pieces bolted?!
And I could get it flocked too!
Just email about getting my dash done too, hopefully I will receive an email back 2moro about it.
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Turbo pictures time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/cd8411b8.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/34af2482.jpg)
Essentially for a comparisonthis is BorgWarners equivalent to a GT4094.
I held one of the new EFR turbos today, the second smallest they do, 400HP capability, and i am quite amazed at how the spinning bits spin with ease, i hardly touched it and it made a fair few revolutions,
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after getting bored with constantly cleaning and pollishing my car i thought i would put the front end together temporarliy so i know how it goes together when i have all the bits cleaned, chromed and looking like new, heres a shot of the front semi assembled.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/9d98d634.jpg)
as you can see the badges are missing at the moment but i have taken them off to be cleaned, they will not go back on until everything is perfect
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didnt attach the chrome bumper as i couldnt fint the mounting brackets.
if anyone could help me with a few pictures on how the front headlight assembelies go together would be a huge help as i dont think i took any photos taking them apart, quite possibly the only thing i didnt take photos of to be honest!!
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Bumper mounting brackets
(http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae121/rivalrotarys/RX4%20Build/929pointynoseparts006.jpg)
Here are my rx4 lights
(http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae121/rivalrotarys/IMG00078-20100912-1532.jpg)
Not too sure if these pics are of use? Hope they are.
Mayson
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That picture is good but I really need a close up of the headlights, more specifically how the lamp seat fixes and everything. Behind the headlight lamps.
Those brackets are inside the car in a box, I shall get them out to have a trial bumper fix.
I am going to have to get the bumper rechromed which isn\'t going to be cheap!
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(http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7352/pic0503806.jpg) (http://img823.imageshack.us/i/pic0503806.jpg/)
(http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/4125/pic0503807.jpg) (http://img155.imageshack.us/i/pic0503807.jpg/)
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/7154/pic0503808.jpg) (http://img26.imageshack.us/i/pic0503808.jpg/)
(http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/5319/pic0503805.jpg) (http://img813.imageshack.us/i/pic0503805.jpg/)
note one of the attach points is a spring
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let us know how you get on with finding someone to rechrome the bumpers etc as all the chrome parts on mine will need redoing, may even be able to get a little discount for two lots, i\'ve just been quoted quite a lot to have them stripped re-cromed and polished!
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let us know how you get on with finding someone to rechrome the bumpers etc as all the chrome parts on mine will need redoing, may even be able to get a little discount for two lots, i\'ve just been quoted quite a lot to have them stripped re-cromed and polished!
Well my dad reckons £250 just for the front bumper! As he had his mustang bits rechrOmed and they did him over on the price. I think I will strip and polish them myself and get the charmers to finish the last bits off and chrome them.
I did take a corner from the rear bumper to be chrome and they weren\'t too happy with how thin the metal is on the bumpers to get a good polish on it.
If worse comes to worse I could just paint them?!!!
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^^ that was not a bad price from what i\'ve had!
can they be still bought new?
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^^ that was not a bad price from what i\'ve had!
can they be still bought new?
rx4 bumpers new??? im sure if you went into mazda and asked them they couldnt even find an rx4 on the system!!:rollin:rollin
how much did they quote you on a single bumper?
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as a rough guide between £250 and £350 depending on the size!
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made up some small brackets today so i could hang the intercooler in the position that i want the intercooler to sit and make up the final brackets which will be from underneath the intercooler hidden.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/81115a97.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/5679a2bc.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/42d54a4e.jpg)
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with intercooler in that position, it has left me with a very good space underneath which will be where the oil cooller will be going.
i know the engine isnt in there yet but i am doing these things in prearation for the engine, everything should squeeze in there just nice, radiator and fans without touching anything on the front of the engine.
need to get and ali rad but one that is the standard thickness as the ebay ones will be too thick.
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as a rough guide between £250 and £350 depending on the size!
i have been in touch with a chroming company and they have given me a rough price of £150 + vat per bumper which sounds like a good price to me,
i have sent them pictures and measurements of the front bumper and will hopefully hear from them next week on exact price for stripping, pollishing and rechroming
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:InLove Love this thread....good to see the progress of your project, cant wait to see this on the strip!!......Savage
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(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/8fa7859c.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/9d746392.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/1654e383.jpg)
Today i decided to put together a bunch of parts i have lying around so i can check fitment of the engine in the bay and for if im going to require to fab any brackets too.
also if the turbo doesnt contact the engine bay walls, but i doubt it as the rx4 bay is prety big
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this came today too
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/4874ab30.jpg)
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and here is what my suspension used to look like (on the right) and sort of what it will lok like when finished (on the left) getting the strut blasted 2moro and then zinc plated ready for painting
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/c1fc3efe.jpg)
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Did you convert the struts??
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Did you convert the struts??
Oh yes. Following some advice from Clive and ray. They\'re fb shocks. Modified to suit my car. Going to have some custom hubs bolted to them too along with fd brakes.
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Once I have got the car doing what I want it to do, I will get some fully adjustable units. But they will cost. This option I am doing is the cheapest way and I get the feeling that I have made the car myself, just like you have kiwi with your westy.
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So you got the coil over kit from Demon Tweeks or similar and as thats for 2 1/2 springs you sleeved the kit to fit the FB units??
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Got the bits from rally design. 180lb springs. 12" free length. Yes they are sleeved, I think they will be good when they are painted. And if the springs are too soft/hard I can change them for cheap.
If they break then I will do something else, but they will last long enough for me to research other options.
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I am also changing the steering setup. Have got a few pictures from when I had carls race car rx3 at my house of the steering setup. I will be hoping to copy it, or get I similar as the person that built that setup looks like they knew what they were doing to start with. I however am learning as I go.
Even learnt how to weld better today. Thanks dad!
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Also by running a straight narrower spring a can gain a little width in tyre size!
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Good move. I was looking at GAZ units for the FB but after speaking to Jules at Aurok I think Ohlins might be the way to go. But until I can afford those it will be home made for now.
If you ever want a car set up. jules is the man. He transformed the westy from an absolute pig to a car that behaves its self. Plus he is a nice guy too and knows of a couple of bods in the rotary scene
Sorry back to your project:spank
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+1 for Jules and Aurok. Amazing place, they know a bit about setting up everything. Bit far from the grim North for Grant to come though. It is exactly in the geographical middle of nowhere, even satnav can\'t find the place! :rollin
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Well money is always the key to what limitsyou go to on choices for your car. I could spend every penny on this car that I have, which wouldn\'t bother me, and it would be awesome. But if I can gain the same end result but for less money and learn lots in the beginning, I think that is better.
However if I was to do this again, I WOULD do things a LOT differently. For example i wouldnt try to compensate between race car and road car. I would chop bits out and replace with parts that benefit what the car is for. Eg, if it was a full drag car I would 4link it with fully rubbed back end, or drift/track car I would mini tub it and extend the arches out to get some serious rubber on there.
Restoring cars is nice but makes things awkward.
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+1 for Jules and Aurok. Amazing place, they know a bit about setting up everything. Bit far from the grim North for Grant to come though. It is exactly in the geographical middle of nowhere, even satnav can\'t find the place! :rollin
Cheers nik. Huddersfield is easy to find, just look for the place where it rains, even on sunny days! Lmao.
But you have to be careful when looking for Huddersfield as there are these things called hills up here, something people at the south have never seen! You have to go up them and then....... Back down them. Very tiring
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Hahaha, I\'ve been to Huddesfield a couple of times, dude. I meant Aurok is hard to find, and it\'s miles from Huddersfield! Even with directions from Jules I still had two goes at it first time I went there.
In Cyprus we have things called "mountains", do they trump hills? :confused: :rollin
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Oh right. My bad. Immure I will find someone up here to point me in the right direction with my front suspension setup. However I don\'t thin there will be too much to adjust on a solid rear axle!
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Ooh I am honoured tonight, I see blitz is viewing my thread, along with Lee mills. Didn\'t know that many people viewed this thread. As most posts and views are by me. Lol
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Don\'t sell yourself short, dude. It\'s gonna be a hell of a thing. Anyway, Blitzen isn\'t anything special, did you not see the pics of him dressed as Sparco Boy? :evillaugh http://www.fduk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23980
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Rear window
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/46fab898.jpg)
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Paint looks awesome and isn\'t even polished yet.
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Oops, big hole!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/1b97a191.jpg)
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Flocked dash
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/18dd01bb.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/8a1c3500.jpg)
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I think the rear light go on the car in this order.
Just got to get the plastic re-chromed
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/5604f0fd.jpg)
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Just a couple of shots of my bros firebird in the making.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/48a2c655.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/50ac96eb.jpg)
It\'s going to have the original 400ci engine in it, 6.5 litre. Basic mods of a cam and a 750 cfm carb!! With ported standard heads for the moment. He\'s been looking at supercharged but they\'re £5,000
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16" FD rims yo!!!!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/72278833.jpg)
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looking good grant makes me wanna just scrap the fd track car to get it out the way and start on the rx4 lol
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looking good grant makes me wanna just scrap the fd track car to get it out the way and start on the rx4 lol
Ha yeah. FD\'s are for wimps. Its all about the rx4\'s!!!
Rx4 track car would be freaking awesome!! And I know of all the good stuff that fits the rx4 now to make it a track car!
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I\'m liking your back yard :) :cheers
The RX4 looks awesome :Thumbs-up
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Ha yeah. FD\'s are for wimps. Its all about the rx4\'s!!!
Rx4 track car would be freaking awesome!! And I know of all the good stuff that fits the rx4 now to make it a track car!
Its a pain to build an rx7 track car with the right bits, i would love one as a track car but im not building it haha
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Looking awesome !
Shaun
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I\'m liking your back yard :) :cheers
The RX4 looks awesome :Thumbs-up
Thanks? Is that due to it having an rx4, trans am & a mustang in it? Or are you liking the double garage?
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Looking awesome !
Shaun
Thanks. Once I have got the wheels on there properly and have fitted some adjustable shockers I\'m going to put them on the softest setting and get some weight in the car so it sits down low and then turn the shockers up to the hardest setting and hopefully it will sit nice and low.
The car looks so high at the moment as it it is still sat on the it\'s trolley. Makes it far easier to move in and out of the garage than it would be pushing it.
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Mainly waiting on getting the engine in now so I can chop and change the wiring in it to power the ecu, before I finish putting the interior bits in, as once all of the air ducting for window fan etc is in it\'s a pain in the arse to get to the wiring,
However, with the battery going in the boot I think I will just take a feed from the main wire, run it through a fuse/mcb and work out which wire on an FD wiring harness powers the ecu and then the rest will be easy to figure out I hope.
Going to mount my data logger box up inside the dash too so I can stick in the laptop when it comes to mapping, will keep it much neater than having wires in the way of the passenger mapping it; )
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Look what I did today
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/e0862f93.jpg)
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Another.......
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/8ab479d2.jpg)
And another
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/4e5f25d4.jpg)
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Ignore the wires, I stuck it in there to figure where it goes because it was Soooo long ago that I removed it.
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After talking to Kev on Saturday I have taken his advice and sealed the boot off from the cabin as I am going to running my fuel system mounted in the boot, along with a few other things ; )
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/69c8fb02.jpg)
Also made cover plates for the speaker holes as I don\'t think a stereo will be loud enough to drown the engine sound anyway. Lol
You can justsee them through te window, I may make a full sheet to cover the whole panel if I have enough material left.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/7b8e4486.jpg)
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My new fanimold
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/2a8f9f14.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/3c1e9ce5.jpg)
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Lovely :D
Shaun
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I do like a good fanimold
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Me too. It has 2 x 450 & 2 x 1680 injectors in it. Plenty of fuel I reckon. The collector tank has been modified to have a 3" inletto match Intercooler and turbo outlets
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Would that injection work on a N/A engine or is it better to go for a throttle body similar to Jenvey for N/A
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Take the hat off and screw some trumpets on and it\'s exactly the same as N/A injection. I\'d go for a RE setup myself for a bp turbo
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It will work for na too. Check out http://www.efihardware.com. Not sure where tO get the LIM from.
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Here you go :
http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=326_27_181&sort=2a&page=2
Shaun
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One day, just maybe one day in the future my car will run this fast.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6BVXLjvjJQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Enjoy!!
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Yeah it was ok
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how much did you pay for your inlet setup..
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how much did you pay for your inlet setup..
Top secret!
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how much did you pay for your inlet setup..
it was £1.00 per horse power that the engine gets.
So pretty cheap really.
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fair enough was just wondering as ive got a injection perfection set up and im looking at selling off everything thats all..
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fair enough was just wondering as ive got a injection perfection set up and im looking at selling off everything thats all..
I\'ll give you £2.50 for it
Seriously can you mail me specs and pics?
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it was £1.00 per horse power that the engine gets.
So pretty cheap really.
Well you have gone and said it now Carl, 1,000,000HP (one million) 13B as it cost a million quid(had me wondering why it was so expensive in the first place)!!! I shall expect a refund if were not within 10% of that figure or a couple of the next gen billets for testing?? Hahaha
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Well I didn\'t think the FD 16" wheels would fit with room to spare but they do, have got at least an inch clearance to the arch so can go wider on a new set of wheels!!
Oh and is this low enough for everyone?
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/79968abf.jpg)
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Awesome :D
Nice set of 17\'s and it will look fantastic !
Shaun
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Hmm maybe!!
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what hubs and uprights are using to be able to fit FD wheels? also what rear are you running?
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Loving this motor . It\'s all about the old skool motors with supercar performance as far as i\'m concered so this ticks all the boxes , it\'s mega cool .
I\'ve also got a mk1 Escort so know about leaf spring rear suspension and the best thing about it is that they hook up a treat even when the car\'s low and hard . My Escort does 1.9sec 60 foots at the Pod even with cold tyres (no burn out) and they are only 175mm wide . :)
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Loving this motor . It\'s all about the old skool motors with supercar performance as far as i\'m concered so this ticks all the boxes , it\'s mega cool .
I\'ve also got a mk1 Escort so know about leaf spring rear suspension and the best thing about it is that they hook up a treat even when the car\'s low and hard . My Escort does 1.9sec 60 foots at the Pod even with cold tyres (no burn out) and they are only 175mm wide . :)
Awesome!! I think these tyres are 225s. Will be getting a pair with drag tyres on to get even better traction too.
A guy I know has a mk1 Mexico, I want it off him so I can put a 13B PP in it but iv got chance at braiding urine then getting that off him.
I have got a few mk1/2 escort parts going on my car, would you believe me if I said the U bolts fit perfect!!
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Looking good Grant
Adam
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With slicks that wide you\'ll do sub 1.5sec 60 foots . Even the mk1 Escorts on 185mm wide slicks are doing 1.5secs and lifting the wheels with pintos !!!!
All we have is normal radius arms running off the rear floor pan onto the top of the axle to stop tramping and that\'s it . No ladder bars or anything fancy and that way they still go around corners fine . Lowering blocks work well with decambered leaf springs as they lower the roll centre further so much better than just running the leafs on their own .
Yours will give you jet lag when it hooks up , lol .
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With slicks that wide you\'ll do sub 1.5sec 60 foots . Even the mk1 Escorts on 185mm wide slicks are doing 1.5secs and lifting the wheels with pintos !!!!
All we have is normal radius arms running off the rear floor pan onto the top of the axle to stop tramping and that\'s it . No ladder bars or anything fancy and that way they still go around corners fine . Lowering blocks work well with decambered leaf springs as they lower the roll centre further so much better than just running the leafs on their own .
Yours will give you jet lag when it hooks up , lol .
I am running anti tramp bars from the chassis runners under the car to the underside of the axle, dont think it makes a difference whether theyre on top or bottom, but they sure as hell will give me some nic straight burnout marks and no boinging when i launch the car.
i have some 1" lower blocks that came with the escort U bolts, dont think i will use them as i have had the leefs rolled the other way. lower blocks propmote tramping, which is what i want to get away from.
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Sounds like a plan . We all run lowering blocks and straight single leaf springs and still get zero tramping , mine just slams into the bump stops on launch (car\'s low) and goes sideways for 2 gears , lol . You can point the diff nose further downwards with relocated spring platforms to aid traction further but most don\'t bother unless chasing 1/100ths off the line . Good fun though when they snake down the road , you\'ll have a whale of a time . :Thumbsup!
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I hope so. It\'s going to be interesting to drive.
What rear gear ratio do you use? I\'m using a 4.672
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I\'ve got a 4:1 diff and 175/50/13 tyres so it\'s more like a 4:4 with the low profile rubber . Mine\'s not got any forced induction though so the engine is a screamer and revs to 8500+rpm between shifts hence the low gearing suits it .
The turbo lot run 15 inch rims and 3:7 diffs as their engines are flat out at 6500rpm . Ideally you need to be flat out in 4th gear over the line so i\'m swopping to a 4:4 next year as mines only at 7500rpm in 4th at present .
If your running tall wheels like 17\'s then your gear ratio won\'t be far out but you won\'t know for sure until you run it . Cars with alot of grip and big turbos can bog on the line and die so that\'s where the correct gearing helps as well .
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For the drag setup the FD 16\'s are a popular choice because Maccy\'T make a nice 16in tyre that fits on the FD.
Was thinking the 17\'s for when it was on the street :D
Shaun
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Yes that\'s what I have the 16s for. Drag Micky Ts. Using and FD gear box so normally in an FD you would be hitting 8500 on or over the line with a 4.1 rear diff. So with my 4.672 rear, FD gear box and 16s I should be in 4th well before the line. If not I can drop the rear tyres to a 15" rim and get some drag tyres on those and I will definately be in 4th going over the line.
I will be launching the car at 5,500 rpm minimum as when I had my FD I was learning where the best point was between wheel spin and bogging. Got to 5,500 after spinning the wheels to take any crap off them and it bogged bad!! Come back towards the staging lanes and my diff was making funny noises so I decided to stop as I had a 2.5 hour drive home.
So 5,500 is where I will build from but I should imagine that I am going to be close to 7,000 rpm launches with drag tyres.
And also my diff ratio can be changed to any of these ratios 3.9, 4.1, 4.4, 4.67, 4.9 and 5.1!!!
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What dif do you have? And how much did it cost? :)
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Grant going back to the beginning...
When you had the car shot blasted what did you cover the bare metal with between having it blasted and spraying it?
Mines going to play in the sand next week and it will be two weeks befor getting paint (welding in between)
Rob
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Yes that\'s what I have the 16s for. Drag Micky Ts. Using and FD gear box so normally in an FD you would be hitting 8500 on or over the line with a 4.1 rear diff. So with my 4.672 rear, FD gear box and 16s I should be in 4th well before the line. If not I can drop the rear tyres to a 15" rim and get some drag tyres on those and I will definately be in 4th going over the line.
I will be launching the car at 5,500 rpm minimum as when I had my FD I was learning where the best point was between wheel spin and bogging. Got to 5,500 after spinning the wheels to take any crap off them and it bogged bad!! Come back towards the staging lanes and my diff was making funny noises so I decided to stop as I had a 2.5 hour drive home.
So 5,500 is where I will build from but I should imagine that I am going to be close to 7,000 rpm launches with drag tyres.
And also my diff ratio can be changed to any of these ratios 3.9, 4.1, 4.4, 4.67, 4.9 and 5.1!!!
Its like listening to Turbotoaster! :Giggle
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How dare you!! Lol.
Unlike him I am going to do what I say. And not for £9.47.
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Grant going back to the beginning...
When you had the car shot blasted what did you cover the bare metal with between having it blasted and spraying it?
Mines going to play in the sand next week and it will be two weeks befor getting paint (welding in between)
Rob
I kept it in our garage with is reasonably dry and wrapped it in cling film then etch primed it. Then started applying filler to the areas that need it. guide coat etc loads of sanding before primer again then onto paint.
It was bare metal for a number of weeks before anything was done to it and it didn\'t go rusty.
Make sure the blaster don\'t go crazy on the roof as it will get stretched and distorted and you will have a knackered car. Also on the panels.
HTH
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What dif do you have? And how much did it cost? :)
I got t from someone in Australia called Duane. He\'s on ausrotary, told me which bits I could use from where for my rear end. He didn\'t tell me what the diff came out of as his supplier in Japan wouldn\'t even tell him.
It must be a Mazda diff though. It\'s LSD too.
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You mentioned somewhere you have strengthened the boot floor did you remove the wheel well?
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You mentioned somewhere you have strengthened the boot floor did you remove the wheel well?
Yes but there isnt much more strength in it than with the wheel well. I just like how the Ali plate looks and it gives me loads of room underneath for a big exhaust.
I\'m keeping hold of the wheel well for the moment, have had to cut a hole in it to get a bolt in/out of the leef springs.
I will take a picture of the boot tonight from inside the boot and underneath to show how much better it looks.
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I want the wheel well :( lol
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I want the wheel well :( lol
I take it yours I holy then? Mine had to be repaired in a few places after blasting as water had eaten its way through it.
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slightly my welder has said it may be easier to replace than patch nicely i told him find me a pile of rocking orse sht and i\'ll supply a good wheel well
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slightly my welder has said it may be easier to replace than patch nicely i told him find me a pile of rocking orse sht and i\'ll supply a good wheel well
Hahahahaha think you would have more chance of finding rocking horse manure TBH
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I already told you where to get one.
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I already told you where to get one.
I know and thanks :) -I have contacted erwin and awaiting a reply but just casting my net as far as possible :)
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This is what my boot looks like now from the inside.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/cd02b321.jpg)
And underneath. Sneak peak of my axle too,
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/5502c96a.jpg)
Crap pictures as I\'m using my iPhone but you get the idea. Still got a few clips and aero motive fuel filter to fit but that\'s it.
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Grant Car is coming along really well mate. Thumbs up
Mir
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Grant Car is coming along really well mate. Thumbs up
Mir
thank you, its going to look even better when i takesome pictures with a proper camera.:Giggle
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Little update now.
So this is what happens when you lower the front suspension by 3"
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/14a5eee6.jpg)
This will be easily solved by either adjustable top mounts or moving the control arm outwards that attaches to the bottom of the suspension strut.
Another shot of the problem
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/f83a7a19.jpg)
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Had a couple of 17" wheels in the shed so thought I would stick them on to see how they look, and also the FD wheels I have are too wide for the front and would need 35mm spacers to clear the suspension :( however I was planning on only using them for drags wheels anyway so it\'s all good.
I just really like the paint on my car, sometimes it looks black, sometimes it looks dark blue, sometimes in the bright sunshine it looks light blue. Pearl spray jobs are amazing!!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/94451dda.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/24fa412b.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/022c1415.jpg)
Now a shot of the powwwwwwwer waiting to go in
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/a02c896a.jpg)
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The FD rims quite suit it , the other ones look a bit modern though . Is there a period looking alloy wheel about for your RX or are you going for the tall 17 inch type wheels ?
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I will be going for 16 or 17" depending on fitment as I can\'t go smaller due to putting FD rx7 discs and calipers on it.
Only period wheels that may suit are mini lite\'s but I\'m not a fan. Unless its a mini. I want wheels with dish on them though.
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Image wheels do some nice split rims in taller sizes , i reckon those gold BBS criss-cross style ones would look good (like on the old E30 bmw M3 touring cars etc) :cool
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Link please. Split rims are gooood!
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Have a look here , lots of great wheels too choose from . :yes
http://www.imagewheels.co.uk/#
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Looking good. :) and those BBS wheels would look awesome on it... :)
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as my engine stands now,
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/0c9f3f28.jpg)
the sump is getting sorted as we speak, as i am using a combination of FD housing and FC plates, FD front cover, etc i have to make one sump out of 2, an FC and an FD sump to get it to fit right. I am using the centre mounts of the FC plates as a front mount like the rx4 used to be just isnt good enough for 500HP
I have also tried to bolt the turbo to the engine but the exhaust housing hits the inlet manifol :( no problem though as i wanted to change the flange on the turbo manifol to a proper T4 flange as for some reason they put a flange with larger diameter openings on them and flare out the tube??!! very silly.
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What LIM (inlet manifold) are you using? can you use the FD Manifolds upper and lower and port them to suit your FC plates?
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What LIM (inlet manifold) are you using? can you use the FD Manifolds upper and lower and port them to suit your FC plates?
the LIM is a simpply maz unit which goes up 2x 55mm(i think) independant TB\'s, each TB has 2x injectors in it.
they are normally used on NA rotaries but this has a top collector to fit it for turbo use.
it was something Carl had and asked if i wanted to use it rather than an FD or FC manifold, it should be interesting to see what effect it has on rpm HP and Torque.
it think it will look good and be different from the usual route.
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check out page 8 blitz, post 184 for better pics of the LIM
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ahhh I see hence why the exhaust manifold with the turbo fouls the LIM, as the LIM was not designed to have a turbo so close to it.
Yeah I like different will five the engine bay a different look
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You can only fit an FC inlet manifold to an FC engine which essentailly this is, the FD one does not fit or line up.
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ahhh I see hence why the exhaust manifold with the turbo fouls the LIM, as the LIM was not designed to have a turbo so close to it.
Yeah I like different will five the engine bay a different look
its no biggie for the turbo manifold to be altered, have just ordered a proper sized T4 flange so the manifold exit matches the turbo entry.
i just have to rotate the top edge of the flange closest to the LIM so it brings it away from the LIM, but i need to make sure i dont rotate it too far and then the turbo toughes the suspension tower.
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You can only fit an FC inlet manifold to an FC engine which essentailly this is, the FD one does not fit or line up.
i didnt know that, are the mounting holes different for a LIM on an FD and an FC?
isnt there an adapter so you could use an FC LIM and FD UIM?
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Flange removed,
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/8bd2e173.jpg)
the new one will hopefully be here by monday, so can drop the engine in and check clearence for positioning of the new flange.
i have used flange way too much, i think i need to go have a sit down ;) :D
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i didnt know that, are the mounting holes different for a LIM on an FD and an FC?
isnt there an adapter so you could use an FC LIM and FD UIM?
Yes we have done adpaters for the upper FD manifold conversion to FC lower lots of times.
The bolt pattern of the lower inlet manifolds and placement of the inlet ports are different in FC and FD\'s and not interchangeable.
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Yes we have done adpaters for the upper FD manifold conversion to FC lower lots of times.
The bolt pattern of the lower inlet manifolds and placement of the inlet ports are different in FC and FD\'s and not interchangeable.
ah you see learn something new everyday:D:Thumbs-up
whilst your here Carl, any luck on the other engine mount and an ignition harness?
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ah you see learn something new everyday:D:Thumbs-up
whilst your here Carl, any luck on the other engine mount and an ignition harness?
Got the mounts.:Giggle
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Got the mounts.:Giggle
Great news:Thumbsup!
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Started off with 2 sumps
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/7c45e68e.jpg)
Did this, on left is FC sump on right is from FD sump
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/f8fb594c.jpg)
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Grant, looking forward to seeing your car mate. Keep up the good work.
Cheers
Mir
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I will get up finished product once it\'s painted and on the engine with my mounts.
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Ordered this new T4 stainless flange yesterday. Came this morning!!! Fastest delivery ever!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/2878ae53.jpg)
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Grant, looking forward to seeing your car mate. Keep up the good work.
Cheers
Mir
Thanks mate. I\'m getting excited about the first start of the car even though that is a while away at the moment, but it\'s getting there slowly.
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Looks good mate. I bet you can\'t wait to get it up and running :D ;)
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Engine harness striPped and retaped blue. Cut out loads of crap such as rats nest, OMP control(going premix) and loads of other stuff
On the LHS is a bunch of cable I\'m keeping in just incase one of them is needed but once the cars running they will be cut out, only ones in that bunch I will keep are probably the fluid level sensor cables but might not even need them.
On the RHS is the cables that run to the year box, may end up removing most of these except the speed cable with plug. Again I will know what I don\'t need once the car is running.
The centre harness is all the main things I need, fuel injectors, TPS, CAS, AIT, AIC, fan thermoswitch, however I may run something seperate to an override switch along with the thermo switch so I can cool the water after I have turned the engine off by flipping the switch.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/792333f1.jpg)
Just noticed too that I have laid the cables down on the floor in a penis shape. Lmao
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Now I have these 2 holes on the rear plate of my engine, FC plates, and want to know which one does what? One of them is for oil temp and the other is for water temp. Which one is which please?
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/5f3aa417.jpg)
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Now I have these 2 holes on the rear plate of my engine, FC plates, and want to know which one does what? One of them is for oil temp and the other is for water temp. Which one is which please?
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/5f3aa417.jpg)
Oil pressure on the right and water temp on the left.
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Boom
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/97aa86b5.jpg)
Boom again
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/2e4d35e5.jpg)
Thanks to Steve for selling me this beauty.
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Chopped off some of the piping as it will have to be changed to fit in my car where I want it, but I am keeping it as it is big stuff, 100mm pipe!!
Cutting this off also made it easier to handle to get some polishing done on it as it was looking a bit pants TBH. Quite a few deep scratches in the charge cooler but with patience I should get near enough all of them out.
Spent an hour or 2 polishing the charge cooler core this afternoon. Still needs some more work but it looks a lot better than it did before I started.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/7db3835b.jpg)
I wasn\'t going to polish anything in my engine bay but it\'s too late now, no turning back. Compressor housing, alternator and inlet pipings are all going to be polished.
Piping I will do myself but alternator will get sent off as its got too many surfaces and small gaps for me to have any kind of patience with it!!
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Whats with the 3 Lambretta chain cases, barrel and head? looking for a resto project at the moment!
Oh great thread by the way, been following this for some time now lurking about. looking forward to what will be a great motor when finished.
Paul
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Whats with the 3 Lambretta chain cases, barrel and head? looking for a resto project at the moment!
Oh great thread by the way, been following this for some time now lurking about. looking forward to what will be a great motor when finished.
Paul
Those casings are my dads, he\'s building at least one more engine for his lambretta using his old racing barrel 225cc. He\'s done some seriously crazy porting in it too.
My cars going to be interesting to drive when it\'s finished and hopefully it will be to everyone\'s liking.
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Grant, this is a nice bit of kit. I really liked your car\'s build and I hoping to see more of it soon. :D
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Dropped the engine in today with gear box attached. Going to be taking it in and out a number of times to make the engine mounts in the right place. Once the engines mounted I can check clearance for the turbo and manifold and weld the new flange on in the right place.
Then I can start mounting the charge cooler and all the ancillaries and mount things like FPR and run fuel lines
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/103f6cfd.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/d498d74b.jpg)
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FPMSL at the Penis wiring loom pic . :D
I\'m running a charge cooler on mine as well so looking forward too seeing yours all fitted up .
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FPMSL at the Penis wiring loom pic . :D
I\'m running a charge cooler on mine as well so looking forward too seeing yours all fitted up .
Well mine is huge, been trying to see where everything will go today. With the sheer size of it I will not get any heat soaking.
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Nice! Do you have more pics, colour looks nice?:)
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OF the car? there are loads on the thread but havent taken any with a decent camera just yet as need to roll the car out into the sun and give it a good polish up.
The colour is an RX8 colour. Stormy Blue i think it is called
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Thumbs up Grant :). Looking forward to seeing this beast in the flesh.
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Well mine is huge, been trying to see where everything will go today. With the sheer size of it I will not get any heat soaking.
Were\'s this heading in regards to the :censored::censored::censored::censored: shaped wiring loom?
Looking forward to seeing how the car goes when finished, keep up the good work also got hold of a PWR chargecooler for my FC just need to fit it up
Cheers
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Were\'s this heading in regards to the :censored::censored::censored::censored: shaped wiring loom?
Looking forward to seeing how the car goes when finished, keep up the good work also got hold of a PWR chargecooler for my FC just need to fit it up
Cheers
Hahaha when you read it that way it sounds real dodgy!! Still quite away yet but the car is getting there, everyone on here will be first to know as soon as its fired up. Looking forward to driving it especially as it doesn\'t weigh much over a tonne. Hoping to do a 10second quarter but if I don\'t I won\'t be too displeased.
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got my fast reating AIT from Brent at wannaspeed this morning
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/a2f2c9b5.jpg)
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Don\'t get the 3bar map sensor, you won\'t need it.
Regards
Carl
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Haven\'t done much lately, but I have made this heart of a gear box brace!! 6mm flat bar with 8 mounting points to the car floor which were conveniently place there by Mazda! Thanks dudes.
I may add another piece a food the middle if I can workout where to bolt it too, but if this doesn\'t stop the gear box moving nothing will!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/1ad089eb.jpg)
I think I am also going to make steel sandwich plate to bolt up on the inspection hatch on the bottom side of the gear box to stop any kind of twisting that I may or may not get, I will just need some longer bolts to secure the plate and cover to the gear box. It all may be a bit over kill and heavy but do it once do it right and the car doesn\'t weigh much to start with so it isn\'t going to make too much of a difference.
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I went to get some bits of ally welded up today onto the CC radiator but my te guy i go to tried welding it and realised he hasnt got any gas left so it wont weld anything.
I came back to the car and went at something else on the long list of things to do, first i dropped the car back on the ground beacuse i had it about 2 feet in the air at the front so i could crawl under for measuring and fitting the gear box brace.it came down not as planned but luckily i didnt damage anything.
i wedged a box in the bay to sit my CC on so i can workout exactly what bends and reducers i need to order for the CC piping, using bits that i had previously cut off the CC i laid them in some sort of routing from the CC to the plenum to give me a pictur of what i am going to need rather than just guessing.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/e696e164.jpg)
the piping run will be a bit straighter than that although i am not too concerned about bends as i am using 102 OD piping. Im thinking of using 2 45*bends from the 90* bend out of the CC towards the plenum.
from the turbo i am going to be using a 76mm 90* with a 76-102mm reducer welded on, then to a 45* 102mm, a straight piece of 102,, passed the engine front too another 90* 102mm into the CC.
This picture just puts into perspective how huge the CC is, when i spoke to the guys a PWR about CC sizes they said "the bigger the better" :Thumbsup!:eek:D
tomorrow i will be cutting some bracket to hold the CC in its place, which should be real fun!!!!! NOT.
I would really appreciate peoples opinions if you think i am doing it wrong, suggestions as to other ways i may not have thought of installing things, as sometimes it is good for others to point out the obvious if im being too technical.
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3 x 45* 102mm = £60
1 x 90* 102mm = £20
1 x 102-76mm reducer = £16
1 x 90* 76mm = £18
1x ally rad = £120
I have got these prices off ebay, if anyone can get them cheaper elsewhere then let me please, thanks.
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Any updates?
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Yes I went and bought a house 2 months ago so money went to zero:( got a few Penny\'s in the bank now so will start making things again. Glad see someone is interested in the car, once I have done some pipe work in the engine bay I will post pics and stuff.
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Glad see someone is interested in the car...........
Hi Grant, I\'m sure there are many people like me who are watching with interest, but might not post up in the thread as we can\'t contribute much, apart from encouragement maybe. I\'ll always in awe of people who bring the old skool rotaries back to life. You are doing a grand job there, keep up the quality of the work, there is no rush or deadline to finish it.
I\'ll be waiting for the next update with interest now that your piggy-bank is recovering :D
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Cheers, I have done a couple of things but need some better pictures of what I have done, hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will have got the CC all piped up and welded together and mounted properly
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Yes I went and bought a house 2 months ago so money went to zero:(
Took me 5 years to get £1 after we bought ours so you\'re doing great , lol . :D
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And Grant, did you notice your thread had over 13,000 views too :)
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Never have seen this great project.
Looks very very nice and cant wait to see it when its ready.
Keep up the good work mate.
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Thanks for the encouragement people, hopefully my car will give others ideas on how to build there own car if they do in the future.
Most of the 13,000 views are from me checking the thread to see if anyone has posted on it ;) :D
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Most of the 13,000 views are from me checking the thread to see if anyone has posted on it ;) :D
:Giggle:Giggle:Giggle
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We love your car Grant :) and I do check the progress time to time but I don\'t like to spam the thread so I keep everything to the minimal.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product mate
Mir
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Nice to see it coming along bud, a world away from when I last saw it locked up :) can\'t wait to see it on the strip.
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Grant,
Don\'t think we are not interested. I\'m like Malcolm, interested but cannot offer any direct advice.
Keep up the good work. At least I\'m local and can bob over for a view when its finished.
Chris
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Thanks for the kind words.
I currently haven\'t been able to anything on the car as I\'m working nights and have been doing for the last 2 months I think. I am just waiting on getting my turbo manifold modified so the turbo clear the LIM then I can get the 4" piping done. Then I will sort the radiator piping, then oil coolers.
Biggest job to do is making my custom front hubs for the FD brake discs I\'m using and make caliper mounting brackets. I have drawn up all the designs for these bits but just need to get to a lathe with my dad and make them.
I will get a picture up today of where I have mounted the CC rad, the positioning of it should see that I never get heat soak.
Currently I am also debating purchasing a Haltech ECU, Steve has go one but can\'t let it go unless someone buys the 20B seperate from him. But if I sell my apexi and data logging I will have most of the money for the Haltech. And work is currently giving me cash to spend on nice things. The reason for wanting a different ecu is that it comes with its own wiring harness, which means I\'m not using an old FD harness like I currently have, even though I have stripped it down and removed and repaired any broken wires. All I have to do with the Haltech is solder on the plugs I need, of which I may be able to get new ones instead of some of the ones I have on the look which are a bit brittoe.
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Just a bit more encouragement Grant, i visit this thread often as it makes me wanna get on with mine :Thumbsup!
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Just a bit more encouragement Grant, i visit this thread often as it makes me wanna get on with mine :Thumbsup!
cheers mate, i think im getting a little frustarted with the fact i have got to drive around a boring ford focus, i havent been in or driven a fast car for some time now and its really getting to me:Grrr:mad::reallymad:2Mad but once this car is done im sure i will be satisfied, if not i will turn the boost up!!:Giggle:eek
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right, so i went and took some pictures of the under car radiator for the charge cooler, i kind of stole this idea from a guy building an rx4 on ausrotary, but my design is better and his radiator is too big to cool the water temps down properly.
Basically a CC radiator doesnt see the same kind of temps that a normal engine radiator sees eg 90*C. A CC radiators water will be around 30-40*C so a thinner radiator is necesary to cool the water but a large volume of water in the overall system will keep the air temp passing through the CC nice and cool.
also from emailing the guys at PWR they have told me that if i were to build a header tank for the rad and fill it with dry ice or norml rice to cool the water to close to 0*C wich will give sub ambient air temps, which means more POWWWWAAAAHHH!!!
the water flow through the CC unit is in the opposite direction to the air flow, i cant remember why but this is what PWR say to do to gain best cooling results.
heres a few pics of where the rad is,
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4229.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4226.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4225.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4231.jpg)
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i will be monting a large slime line fan or 2 small ones on the rad to cool the water when im stationary (read sat in the pits waiting to nail it up the 1/4 mile at pod) i have now realised how low my car is at the back at the moment, but this may be down to it only having the leef springs on there as i havent purchased new adjustable shockers. but still its low even with the 16" rear FD wheels.
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cheers mate, i think im getting a little frustarted with the fact i have got to drive around a boring ford focus, i havent been in or driven a fast car for some time now and its really getting to me:Grrr:mad::reallymad:2Mad but once this car is done im sure i will be satisfied, if not i will turn the boost up!!:Giggle:eek
Well with me having the RX7 the RX3 and the RX8 all being prepped all i had left was the ford ranger, so i purchased myself a Merc SL55 AMG to have a play in :Thumbs-up
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this is the kind of hoes i will be running through the inside of the car http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLEAR-BRAIDED-PVC-WATER-AIR-HOSE-PIPE-HEAVY-DUTY-/120878341878?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item61ce166a85 in the passenger side footwell front to rear, i am running it inside the car so it doesnt get damaged and i can keep an eye on the water colour for debris and if its frozen in the winter. I was going to use aluminium piping under the car but it maens using joiners and more clamps, with the braided hose i can do the flow and return in one piece with minimum clamps and joiners
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Well with me having the RX7 the RX3 and the RX8 all being prepped all i had left was the ford ranger, so i purchased myself a Merc SL55 AMG to have a play in :Thumbs-up
an RX8 too? your just greedy steve;) what are you having done too it?
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an RX8 too? your just greedy steve;) what are you having done too it?
Its just a stock blue RX8 that iv put some black paint on and stripped it for oulton and snetterton :D
Some good pads installed and removing tones of stuff should make for some fun i think :D
ill have to get some piccys up as its going to be a buget tracker, iv only got 5 hrs prep invested into it :)
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oulton and snetterton, couldnt have picked 2 tracks further apart. lol.
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only full trackdays that are on MRC at the mo :)
Always best going with gents ya know and are local\'ish ;)
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:mmmm Nice work there Grant, always good to see some pics!
:mmmm:mmmm Steve, looking forward to seeing what you\'ve done to your RX-8 at Oulton and Snetterton:)
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Carl i can see you looking, what you think about using a haltech?
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finally got my ebay manifold moddified so that the turbo clears the LIM on my engine.
i bought a Racing Beat header flange from Clive (thanks again Clive;) )so that it coul be welded to the exhisting flange to move the turbo further away from the LIM, i have seen someone in the states do exactly the same as me and have no problems and he is running a BW turbo and also a supercharger, i also bought a true T4 flange as the flange on the manifold has been opened out for some reason and is a complete mismatch for the flange on the turbo, however now it is bang on. the manifold has become heavier but most of the weight is bolted too the engine but i will also be bracing the turbo to help spread the weight as big turbos like the BW366 i have are also quite heavy.
anyway picture time of the manifold and the welds, which my friend has done for free, he is a tutor at barnsley college so knows how to do his stuff good.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4240.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4239.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4238.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4237.jpg)
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the second picture shows he has actually welded inside the flange too like i asked him, he said it was really difficult but he has done and amazing job in such a small opening!! Thank you Craig.
the last picture looks great, awesome beads from his TIG welding skills :D you can also see the blueing effect on the metal which goes to show how much heat is produced from welding stainless steel.
i have asked him a while ago if he would make a manifold from scratch but he said he wouldnt know where to start as it is not the kind of welding fabrication he has done. which is a shame :(
i was going to get the mani mounted and the turbo bolted in today for some pics of it in the engine bay but the weather is crap and i got to work at 2 so not enough time, more pics will come as soon as its all in bolted up, and maybe with some bracing for the turbo too. this will also allow me to finish the intercooler piping off too, of which my friend will be welding
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got a couple of pictures of a beatiful GTO drag car at the main event last weekend, didnt take many pictures as i was too busy watching the racing and sticking my fingers in my ears, and most of the car were hidden under camoflage covers as i couldnt find half of them when walking around the pits, anyway this car was running " 88mm turbos attached to a big v8, man i love these cars!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4234.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4235.jpg)
holes in the bonnet are for air for the turbos, not for catching bugs ;)
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so i have got a few days clear with no work in sight for the moment, which has given me time to get things mounted onto the engine.
a few pics of the turbo and fanimold bolted together
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/408fe1a4.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/b286ccd5.jpg)
i really like this shot for some reason
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/72c0807a.jpg)
spinny spinny:Giggle with compressed air dont know how to load videos but hopefully this link will work.
http://s1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/?action=view¤t=a6be603d.mp4
a few engine bay shots with the turbo mounted,
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/65ca7144.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/45a647e7.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/a2a8b93a.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/b2a7025b.jpg)
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got a couple of pictures of a beatiful GTO drag car at the main event last weekend, didnt take many pictures as i was too busy watching the racing and sticking my fingers in my ears, and most of the car were hidden under camoflage covers as i couldnt find half of them when walking around the pits, anyway this car was running " 88mm turbos attached to a big v8, man i love these cars!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4234.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DSCF4235.jpg)
holes in the bonnet are for air for the turbos, not for catching bugs ;)
The motor is coming along nicely :)
saw this same GTO at the Autosport show
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as you can see there isnt much room between turbo and LIM but theres loads compared to what it was before which was none existent. tommorrow i am going to pick up and swap my front housing for one that has a 90* bend on it, of which borgwarner turbos give as an option not a welded on jobby, to help simplify the pipe work for the CC and look a lot neater.
i also need to mount my alternator thingy to see how much lower i can drop the CC so that the filler neck, which can be seen on the end of the blue 90* silicone bend on top of the CC, clears my bonnet when closed. I probably dont need to drop it as it will push down and not damage anything but it will just bug me if i dont as it wont be quite right.
need to build brackets for mounting my davis craig EWP (electric water pump) which i might do 2moro.
i have also re-wrapped my wiring harness and chop old crappy wires out that were broke and replaced with new, and i have heat shrinked it all. someone said heat shrinking an old harness couldnt be done, well i did it and looks the nuts compared to what mazda made, still got a few wires im not too sure if i need or not, such as the ones that go to the gear box. when the car is running i will know if they are not needed and chop them off to smarten everything up.
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The motor is coming along nicely :)
saw this same GTO at the Autosport show
thank you its getting there slowly but trying to do things once so the build is taking longer:(
there were many other beautiful cars at santa pod but didnt take photos, will hopefully get some at the next event.
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Looking good Grant:mmmm
Cant wait to hear and see it:Thumbsup!
Mir
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where did you get the manifold from Grant? was it a stock gen 2?
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where did you get the manifold from Grant? was it a stock gen 2?
The manifold was something that Carl had. I take it you mean the lower inlet manifold? It is a cast piece, it says simplmaz on it. The TBs are from EFI hardware.
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Looking good Grant.
Like the quality of your work.
Chris
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Looking good Grant.
Like the quality of your work.
Chris
thank you, hopefully my quality of work will match your quality and detail you have done on your car.
really wish i had a TIG welder and knew how to use it as i could get all of the CC piping done today.
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thank you, hopefully my quality of work will match your quality and detail you have done on your car.
Grant, just ask Chris how his SatNav is attached ;)
Sorry, couldn\'t resist :D
Seriously though, both of you have/are doing some really excellent work. I can\'t see we\'ll be able to match the quality with Kimi\'s restoration, but you guys set high standards to aim for!
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Grant, just ask Chris how his SatNav is attached ;)
Sorry, couldn\'t resist :D
Seriously though, both of you have/are doing some really excellent work. I can\'t see we\'ll be able to match the quality with Kimi\'s restoration, but you guys set high standards to aim for!
Kimi? Is that th FB a few of you are redoing? Is there a thread on it as I have probably not seen it. If you want an opinion on things for Kimi then I will give it, I find it\'s easiest when someone from outside of the box makes a suggestion on how to do something a different way even if it isn\'t how you want to do something, but it will alter how you to it to bring the ideas together.
Whilst I have been building my car I have changed things multiple times because once I have made a part I can see how to make it better.
For instance I have just been and swapped the compressor cover on my turbo today to make my piping simpler and neater.
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in my previous post i said i was going to be removing the current compressot cover and exchanging for one with a 90* bend on it, drove to AET turbos, 50 mile around trip and swapped my old one for this new one, well chuffed!!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/6a13b796.jpg)
whilst the comp housing was off i got to see the comp wheel so i took the obligatory pics,
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/2c6ef0c7.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/7449ec57.jpg)
on the customer service desk they have this great piece for every petrol heads mantlepiece
Sectioned turbo showing all the inner workings, bearings, oilways etc
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/81d8a8d6.jpg)
In this next picture i am trying to give you a view of what it will lokk like when its all welded together. I am going to be modifying the plenum so that the 45* bend sweeps straight into the plenum instead of into the centre section, which means i can keep it all 4" / 102mm piping.
i have chopped a 102mm 90* bend down and taped a 76-102mm reducer on for the purpose of the picture, and stuck it onto the outlet of the turbo, this will then sweep into another 90* bend into the CC, all parts will be welded but using tape for the mo until i have everything in final positions.
the image i have in my head of the finished piping looks good, and i will only be using 2 silicone joiners
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/ea417e52.jpg)
and finally as you are all probably bored of my picture whoring over the last couple of days, one of the paint work, there are a lot of faint scratches you can see but they will polish out but i wanted to show you the amazing paint colour when the sun light hits it, a spread of light blue almost to black. For the rx8 fans reading my thread you will know that it is an RX8 colour, Stormy Blue, and is possibly the best colour going, its not cheap though.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/519de176.jpg)
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The car has come a long way from when I saw it. Well done
Adam
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The car has come a long way from when I saw it. Well done
Adam
thanks, i do believe it was like a block of swiss cheese when you last saw it in the flesh?
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Looking very neat as well grant :)
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Nice work , mate.:)
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Looking very neat as well grant :)
Nice work , mate.:)
thanks for the kind words guys:o
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Just a few pieces for the puzzle that is my cc piping.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/555b0baa.jpg)
Also took delivery of my Kirkey seat.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/3ded86e7.jpg)
Complete with covers
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/e7794c8b.jpg)
One shot from the back
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/31cc4ad2.jpg)
Really happy with this seat, got it from a very generous member on here, delivered all for £200!
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The seat fits just right. It\'s a little tight on my thighs but they are bigger than the average persons. This is something I can live with as probably going to lose a little weight over the few months so should fit perfect then.
Can anyone help me with computer problems? I can post through my iPhone but can\'t post on MRC through laptop?
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I like the look of that seat ! What is the restriction like at arm height as it looks like the sides bend in a little.
What weight is this ?
Chris
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It is very light. A few kilos maybe. I will try get some scales and weigh it for you. Chris if you want to try it out and sit in it you can come down to my house at the weekend or when ever I\'m at home? It\'s a snug fit. I rekon you would have more room than me in as I think I\'m a bit more muscular than you.
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chris it weighs 4.8kgs, plus the cover. maybe another kg at most
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Looking great grant, are you gonna be ready for god of pod. Was chatting with Garry Sunday. They were running the escort, getting some good times in too.
Was good to see him .
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Looking great grant, are you gonna be ready for god of pod. Was chatting with Garry Sunday. They were running the escort, getting some good times in too.
Was good to see him .
I doubt it will be ready for this years GOP but definately next years. Lol. Work slows down my progress on the car but if I don\'t work I don\'t cash to spend on things. Have spoke to my friend that welded to manifold and he has said he will weld the ally bits for me too which is great.
Have you swapped in your bridge port motor yet Keith?
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No mate, not had time, :(. Need to get my ass into gear. Couple of things to sort out and boom, get it in and mapped :)
Charge cooler looks nice :). Top work on the welding.:Thumbs-up
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Cheers Keith. My mate will be doing the rest of the welding so should look awesome, if I did the welding it would just look like pidgeon :censored::censored::censored::censored:.
The charge cooler looks good but it is huge! Trying to think of better way to support it but currently not having any luck :(
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It\'s taking shape nicely now . Nearly there .
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Yes it\'s nearly there but once the engine bay is complete it\'s coming out again to paint the engine mount and reinforce it a little.
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Not much going on but iv been selling things and buyings to get the bits I want for the car and do things right the first time, I hope.
Sold my dataloggit, twin power, igniter, coils and ecu. Bought a Haltech e11v2 from Steve. This thing does so much more than the apexi and allows me to know the ins and outs of every part of my wiring. Also allows me to run 4 seperate coils and up to 8 injectors. I bought 4 x AEM smart coils, picked up an under drive kit from Carl
Pic
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/18A9F5A7-60ED-4B34-90A9-FBBCC4755BB1-7510-00000E26736E66F6.jpg)
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awesome this work looks really really nice Grant keep it up.
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More shiney parts FTW!!!
When do you reckon you will have it on the road? :)
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More shiney parts FTW!!!
When do you reckon you will have it on the road? :)
As soon as possible. Only thing that I need to get it moving is time, and I don\'t have much spare time due to working. It will be running for rotorstock next year as me and Steve are going to be fighting to take best old skool off Clive. Although I will blasting down the strip all day whilst Steve takes the attention in the stand.
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This needs to run! And soon!
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Got something welded
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/4AE62C34-4F7D-4171-A6E7-95433140BEE7-14594-00001C4FA5EE3A56.jpg)
Bit of a pain as one piece is 2mm the other is 1mm. Luckily all the rest of the pieces are 2mm.
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1mm? That seems really thin... is this on the pressure side?
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Yes just off the turbo, I think it will be fine, it may be 1.2mm. I\'m not going to be running huge pressure........ At the start, if it buckles, which it won\'t, I will change it
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1mm? That seems really thin... is this on the pressure side?
I don\'t think it will be too thin thinking about it. The guys that connect the gas pipe up for the fridges/freezers on sainsburys use copper pipe 10mm OD I think and that stuff is so soft you can bend it in your hand and they test that pipe work at 40 BAR. For 24 hours. That\'s 588 psi. Think I should be ok at 14.7 psi
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I was thinking more along the lines of it deforming/denting easily :)
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I think it will be fine, in this photo you can see where The reducer, 3"-4" is place. It is only a small piece and was the only one made from ally that I could find when I ordered all my pieces. Plus it is welded to a thicker piece and the structure and circular shape of the piping will aid in it strength.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/0B6A5CC5-A4EE-48E3-B215-3B6A4F757939-14594-00001D5F39BABE13.jpg)
You can get the picture total of what I\'m doing with the intake now. Just going to draw up the plenum on paper as you can see i have chopped the standard piece :) :eek
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Chop chop :spank:p
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Just scribbled these. My drawing skills are crap so you will just have to deal with it. I\'m better at making things out of metal so finished product will look good. If you have seen James willadays intake plenum mine will be kind of the same just a bit smaller as his is rather large.(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/E8589BA9-E34D-44EB-8C46-876B027B2756-14594-00001D628324EE79.jpg)
There\'s a guy called Erdin on t\'other site with same plenum.
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That looks like a dyson attachment , lol
Could of got a jw one on the summit order with a sketch :wiggle
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That looks like a dyson attachment , lol
Could of got a jw one on the summit order with a sketch :wiggle
It wouldn\'t have fit my throttle body and LIM
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This project is taking shaping nicely. Keep it up mate.
Mir
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This project is taking shaping nicely. Keep it up mate.
Mir
Thanks bud, slowly but surely. Looking forward to seeing yours finished :)
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I have been doing little pieces here and there on the car, and little bits add up to getting the car done quicker.
i have bought a gear box from Kev, it is in great condition and hasnt done many miles, hardly any grime on it.
i have made a 6mm steel plate to sandwich between the gear box sump plate with extra steel sticking further out to bolt another brace to the box and to the chassis floor, should make it super strong now, no smashed synchros until i get serious power.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/1F043013-309A-4A26-B37C-94A07254E3A2-21736-00002C3EAACE58D2_zps96176764.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/7070AB9D-1C4B-4911-B5BF-7F712BF0C9C1-21736-00002C3EB270A978_zps6cb72a91.jpg)
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as you can see i painted it stealth bomber matt black, should make it even stronger ;)
got some shiny new pieces from Clive at Mazdarotaryparts. came super quick, clutch release arm, clutch release bearing and clutch slave cylinder
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/C032087B-7997-45FA-9785-C4F8E8D4A7F7-21736-00002C3EC67698F0_zpsb13c5fec.jpg)
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have got some 3mm ally and 2mm ally, going to be making the plenum next weekend, and get it welded up by a friend of mine.
I have been trying to figure out how to fit my massive 60mm wategate and a 3" downpipe in the space available and have finally figured out what to do. Going to be cutting off the current wastegate piping, sealing it up. and cutting holes in the front side of the manifold and bring th wastegate forward as i have a huge amount of space there. bit of a pain in the butt chopping and welding things and i should have got someone to make me one from scratch but i just cant afford that amount for a custom mani when this one will do, and i rekon my movement of wastegate will be in a better position thatn the original
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Also got a WI kit coming to me..... Pre turbo only:) :D
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Very nice Grant. Keep it up. The parts looks fresh too:)
Best of luck with the remaining Project.
Mir
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Good to see this progressing Grant. I know what it\'s like trying to find time to get things done, I\'m having the same trouble with progressing my 1st Gen restoration project. Like you, I say to myself, every small piece of work is adding up to getting her back on the road, however long it takes! At least she is tucked up in the dry in my garage to stop the rust getting any worse.
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Made my plenum out of card today:)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/BB7D0BF2-E20A-42F2-A9C7-BDE9C7A3B979-25513-000032BF5F290F7E.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/EA7AD649-9122-4C6E-A884-D745951D0859-25513-000032BF64AA792A.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/09FF2CCF-2E0B-4656-B031-12F46BB6D860-25513-000032BF6BFC20AF.jpg)
In that picture is a turbo manifold I\'m chopping up to change my other one to suit my engine bay space. Nee the wastegate to come forwards from the Manu not backwards as there\'s not enough room for the massive tial beast.
Can anybody say WATER INJECTION PRE TURBO!!!!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/068DCD17-3076-445D-A9E8-2608A728231C-25513-000032BF739CB615.jpg)
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very nice , awesome work:Thumbs-up
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Some nice engine bay bling going in . :cool
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I\'m not sure that manifold will handle the boost, you need to use brown tape for maximum strength!
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Duct tape, it\'ll hold and be shiney like the chargecooler!
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Iv got some special chrome foil tape I stole/borrowed from the guys that lag all the pipes at work. It\'s strong stuff
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But will it take your MAAAD boost?
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The boost will be fine, but I\'m having concerns about the water and methanol destroying the card:(
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That\'s a worry, also if it\'s after your injectors then the petrol will really mess up the glue. I\'d probably run a metal manifold, it\'ll be heavier, but avoid all these problems! :):Laugh:burnout
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The plenum is before the the TBs. good job iv got some 3mm ally in my garage to cut out tonight
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Good good, I am all for elegant engineering solutions and stuff but I think an ally intake plenum is the way ahead.
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Well I was thinking titanium but I can\'t quite cut that with my tin snips
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Started off with this
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/0472898F-173A-404D-86DE-F66F47DED4EF-26165-000033C5FBB6B301.jpg)
Finished with these
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/760D18ED-2C88-4C08-9AC0-403EF0FB7D56-26165-000033C601B91CE0.jpg)
Got to fold the 2 side pieces and then get it welded up, can\'t wait to have it finished
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Coming on very well Grant.
That\'s how I usually end up with shapes, lots of cut out card shapes and finally finished aluminium or stainless pieces. I haven\'t any welding equip though, so you have the added advantage.
Good luck, its great to see guys designing their own stuff.
Chris
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Coming on very well Grant.
That\'s how I usually end up with shapes, lots of cut out card shapes and finally finished aluminium or stainless pieces. I haven\'t any welding equip though, so you have the added advantage.
Good luck, its great to see guys designing their own stuff.
Chris
We can\'t weld aluminium at my dads, need a 3 phase supply for a decent alli welder. Got at least 3 people I can go to though to get it done. Think the one lad will be happy to do straight welds as there won\'t be any gaps from my crap cutting skills on 4" piping. Lol.
Will hopefully have the plenum all finished by next week and then the final little pieces on the charge cooler done, then it\'s onto the radiator. Prety easy job I rekon.
Just remembered iv got to make a sump too, anyone recommend what thickness Ali to make it out of??
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I think Greddy\'s ally sump for the RX8 is 6 mm aluminium. Although since you\'re probably getting 3 times the power out of yours then you may gain something from a thicker sump adding some stiffness to the block.
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I think Greddy\'s ally sump for the RX8 is 6 mm aluminium. Although since you\'re probably getting 3 times the power out of yours then you may gain something from a thicker sump adding some stiffness to the block.
I was thinking of running a sandwich plate made from steel in between the sump and the block?? Similar to my gear box brace plate that iv made. I\'m only going for 500 HP, it\'s not really that much power, if we were talking 750+ then I would say I\'m goin for lots of power.
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True, I was going on the assumption that an RX8, what the greddy sump is for, makes about 180-200bhp stock and you\'re going for over 500 bhp. Steel Sandwich plate would help with block stiffness though.
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But more welding done. Slow and steady wins the race.
Wastegate vband
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/1155E009-173D-45DA-81CB-BBE5B1FF9058-211-00000019BDB8B2F1.jpg)
Charge cooler again. It\'s almost back to what it looked like when I got it, although I have rotated and replaced the bends to fit my car. Have got one
More piece to weld to the cc but can\'t do that until the plenum is done. That will be done for next weekend though hopefully.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/4C804EB5-0345-4CF4-8ED8-16E28A8FBC9F-211-00000019E195BBA4.jpg)
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I should have put a ruler next to the wastegate, I forgot
How big the damn thing is!!
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I\'ve got to learn to weld.
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I should have put a ruler next to the wastegate, I forgot
How big the damn thing is!!
Done:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a400/zeppelin101/1155E009-173D-45DA-81CB-BBE5B1FF9058-211-00000019BDB8B2F1.jpg)
... Unless you meant a rule? :P
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Done:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a400/zeppelin101/1155E009-173D-45DA-81CB-BBE5B1FF9058-211-00000019BDB8B2F1.jpg)
... Unless you meant a rule? :P
Hahaha smarty pants, yes a rule. Not a dictator. Lol
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Dictator or South Korea\'s best known rapper after a few too many burgers?
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:Giggle:Giggle so that\'s what he does when he takes of the "fat suit" disguise!
BTW, nice work Grant :Thumbs-up
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Hahaha smarty pants, yes a rule. Not a dictator. Lol
I got pulled up on it at work on Tuesday, couldn\'t resist lol
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I will just leave these here
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/45F896E3-7AD6-46A2-A479-55DE73B9AFF7-2019-0000041698187702.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/19684D4D-9B63-4A25-839F-A2ABDB204E2B-2019-00000416923B748E.jpg)
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Plenum of win!
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Yep. Should be be fully completed by the end of next week, have got hours of polishing to do on it then but that isn\'t a priority at the moment.
I decided that 3mm ally would be far superior to the previous cardboard design
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Polishing !!!!!! Looks like I will have some competion !
Looking good Grant, roll on next year when we can see this in action.
Chris
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Polishing !!!!!! Looks like I will have some competion !
Looking good Grant, roll on next year when we can see this in action.
Chris
Yes polished:) however I don\'t think I have the patience to get it as shiny as yours
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nice one...where is your throttle and how does it mount?
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Let me see if I have a picture bud. Otherwise I will take one 2moro and post it
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Here you go
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/3c1e9ce5.jpg)
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And the other side.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/2a8f9f14.jpg)
LIM still needs porting to match the 2x 55mm throttle bodies and the side ports
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Looking good mate . :)
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why did you change the plenum?
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why did you change the plenum?
To make it fit up to my 4" piping. The inlet on the plenum had a 3" piece going into it and I didn\'t want to have to reduce my piping back down to 3" from 4" as it would have made me have to use tighter bends. By altering it I can sweep the piping into the plenum with a 45* bend. With the original plenum I would have had to use 2 45s and reducer
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4" piping is way over kill!!
Personally. Wouldn\'t touch those air/water coolers with a 10 ft pole know people who have had them and have inlet temp issues ..
Air to air few :) good luck with it though
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4" piping is way over kill!!
Personally. Wouldn\'t touch those air/water coolers with a 10 ft pole know people who have had them and have inlet temp issues ..
Air to air few :) good luck with it though
Thanks, I have had a few discussions with the guys at PWR and they are quite confident with my system layout.
I was a little concerned about getting the temps down from what I have found with others using water air coolers. What I have found is that others aren\'t using a cooler big enough to start with, I have the biggest one available, others also mount there cooler rads within a couple of feet of the actual cooler, mine is mounted at the rear of the car underneath the boot where the wheel well used to be, other don\'t use fans and the cooler rads, I will be using a couple, on at all times.
There a couple of other things that people do wrong, such as mounting the filler neck in the wrong place, it should be in the highest point of the system to remove air. The water should flow through the cooler in the opposite direction to the air flow. And the pump should be mounted at the lowest point of the system. People tend to put things where they can fit and hope that it works when it never will.
Plus I\'m going to be running pre turbo WI so should be all good!
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So a box of goodies turned up:D
Currently emptying my garage to move the car from my dads to my house, can work on it without having to go further than 10 steps
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/DC761BDA-D617-46A9-BA03-B0BAC7EFCF85-70318-00001406A8AB6185.jpg)
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What\'s the advantage of that plenum/adapter vs the earlier design you normally see?
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What\'s the advantage of that plenum/adapter vs the earlier design you normally see?
Don\'t know, don\'t care. It makes everything fit together easier.
However larger plenums help with top end HP. More air available.
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I\'m talking about the electric water pump plenum/adaptor that fits in the front plate shown above my post.
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Oh right, sorry.
The EWP is what I have to run as I have the side mount alternator kit, I could use the standard water pump but I don\'t want too. Steve Garbutt said I can\'t run the alternator in standard position as it looks rubbish. Gets in the way of viewing the engine block, which is what we all want to see isn\'t it? :D
I can also control the EWP off my ecu, I do this through one of the PWM outputs, pump will either run all the time time or switch on and off to keep the engine at whatever temperature I select on the ecu setup.
The main priority is tidying up the look of the engine though, the water pump housing looks pants.
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I know what you\'ve got there.
You have to relocate the alternator when you fit a EWP.
My question was, why that design and not this one:
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=120988041954
Any advantages?
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I\'m not sure, when I did searching for alternator kit I found extreme rotaries so just bought all the stuff from there.
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Wow triple post!! I can\'t view that item, I\'m on my phone. Could you post a picture of it?
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I\'m on my phone too
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/craigdaviesewp2.jpg)
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/craigdaviesewp.jpg)
Here it is dummied up:
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/IMG_0239-1.jpg)
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/IMG_0237-1.jpg)
(http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/wheresthebeef23/Spare%20engines/IMG_0235-1.jpg)
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Only difference I can make out is that mine has 3 bolt holes and that mine give the water system a high point for bleeding air out better? Where\'s your filler neck?
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Where\'s your filler neck?
On top of the rad.
They come in both 2 and 3 bolt design. Much cleaner.
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On top of the rad.
They come in both 2 and 3 bolt design. Much cleaner.
There\'s not much in it to be honest. I really like how mine looks and it\'s o ringed too. I\'m having the filler neck just after the outlet, hopefully this will be my highest point in the cooling system, then I will be using solid pipe, not silicone, down to the EWP then to the rad, from rad to inlet side in sold pipe too. Going to look much better than silicone piping.
I think if I would have looked for other option for the water inlet/outlet I would have had something else, probably like the one you posted but I can never be arsed searching around for cheaper alternatives. I went with the xtreme rotaries stuff as I remembered someone on ausrotary got parts from them
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My radiator is going to lower than the top of the engine too so I can\'t have a filler neck on the radiator:(
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What rad are you using?
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eBay special. Worked great on my fd, should work great on this setup
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You know EWPs don\'t like being hard mounted, right?
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You know EWPs don\'t like being hard mounted, right?
no i didnt, do you mean solid mounted on its fixing points? there will be a silicone joiner between the solid pipes and the pump if thats what your referring too?
thanks for the advice though:Thumbsup!
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just found this on craig david website.
How and where do I fit the Electric Water Pump?
Both EWP®80 and EWP®115 Electric Water Pumps fit most makes and models and mount into the bottom radiator hose. You just cut out 100mm (4 inches) of hose and let the EWP in. The existing water pump housing is still required as an inlet into the engine block, or a blanking plate can be manufactured to bolt up to the block with an inlet for the radiator house to replace the old pump. It is recommended that you do not ‘hard mount’ your Electric Water pump. When firmly fixed to the chassis or engine, the EWP® may bow which disturbs the shaft seal and may cause a leak and not reseal when the EWP® cools. The EWP®115 weighs only 980 grams, therefore the radiator hose is more than capable of holding your lightweight EWP®. Should it be necessary to mount the pump we recommend you use rubber ‘cotton reel’ type mounts to help cushion the pump against vibration and you can use the extra holes around the perimeter of the base of the EWP for this purpose. A supplementary mounting plate can also be used for mounting purposes. Both kits come complete with all the necessary components required for easy installation and a comprehensive DIY instruction booklet.
thanks for heads up drtool, much appreciated
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The inlet housing (whre you have connected your water hoses to the top of the front plate) that replaces where the old water pump goes, where did you get that from? Im thinking of going electric water pump saves me fabbing one up
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its and extreme rotaries one marco
ask very nicely and i may have an ewp to block adapter you can have ;)
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Yes it\'s an extreme rotaries ones. This going on your drag car mark?
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Don\'t forget you need side mount alternator too;)
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its and extreme rotaries one marco
ask very nicely and i may have an ewp to block adapter you can have ;)
wicked pretty please :D
yip going on drag car Grant
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The fd drag car or you started on the rx2?
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the fd, no money for the rx2 , plus my team mate on the project needs to sort out his garage space so he can make a cage
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Not a huge update but I\'m excited no the less.
Moved my car from parents to my garage!! This means when the soaps are on I can go and work on my car!!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/782FD6DE-CA94-4F05-B4AA-854117BF574C-14409-00001F59DF8A257C.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/0A4F5248-8AEF-4905-A018-030B52EEE5EC-14409-00001F59E86A2D3C.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/A4F04AF7-1937-4260-8DC2-8E6E9BCEB4FB-14409-00001F59FF263934.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/95BE98C9-B018-4F66-B9C6-A6AEB721F6C7-14409-00001F5A10CF0445.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/537DE3AB-3D6D-45F2-BA8A-A606A3D1CBA9-14409-00001F5A16A510DD.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/833A3B05-B2A5-4A97-8CA8-3C23C910B9F1-14409-00001F5A1FA95501.jpg)
I have more than enough room down either side to work under the car, now need to order some fuel line and clips and also some brake line. And of course some cable for the battery feed from the boot space too the alternator.
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nice one/.......what mani did you use in the end?
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Run the radiator in the boot - it looks wicked mean like that :D
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nice one/.......what mani did you use in the end?
Turbo manifold? I\'m using an eBay one at the moment but I\'m modifying the crap out of it to suit the engine bay. I\'m probably going to have to make my own from scratch which is what I was trying to avoid:( I have the turbo mounted in the best place possible to fit with the cooler and everything.
The wastegate positioning on FD manifolds, this eBay one, is a pain in the arse. Ian going to be cutting it off and bringing from the bottom of the manifold and towards the front of the car as I have more room there and it makes my down pipe build much much simpler.
I will be running a screamer pipe straight out by the side of the driver side wheel! Nice noise and flames:D
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Run the radiator in the boot - it looks wicked mean like that :D
I wish I could, it would be far easier but I already have the charge cooler radiator mounted under the boot floor! I may end up mounting the rad back there in the future, if I go 20B:D
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Right time for some picture whoring. Seen as the car is in my back garden, would have been rude to not put the side mount on and the new water inlet/outlet wouldn\'t it.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/A0A99F84-F0DD-41D8-BEC4-4DE67357C98F-15241-00001F8CBC9D2251.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/72006AF0-5763-4237-9179-D7C0FC6BD284-15241-00001F8CC79AAC35.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/7B748851-9213-4170-B053-1DE413E0FCE2-15241-00001F8CCD1B56A0.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/077913DB-2D4E-43FC-92FD-99F22323A534-15241-00001F8CD26E43F6.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/7B3BA03D-EB7B-4355-95E9-1B24CCBF2920-15241-00001F8CD76737F1.jpg)
This kit came with no instructions but I didn\'t need it as its so simple. You have to remove a few studs from the block but easily done with a pair of grips.
The alternator pulley doesn\'t line up with the FD front cover pulley but I\'m not fussed. Going to machine a pulley to fit out of aluminium. I could just swap to an fc front cover but that\'s not an option for me
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Fuel line turned up today. Got some clips for it it too. Hopefully get it installed this week. Need a couple of axle stands though.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/14BE6B6C-BC9D-4951-A999-805B2694D4B6-35864-00000A4610C46279.jpg)
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I might have to find an excuse to head over and take a nosey at this Grant :Giggle
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If your near Huddersfield any time you can come have a look
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thats one hell of a drive over Brett .. you would have to bob in and see me on the way over :D
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still aint seen this myself and grant is only down the road haha :)
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Come over and look Steve. Anytime you want.
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Epic road trip anyone?
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Sneak around the North looking at interesting Old School Rotary Builds. Fun times for all.
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Iv got plenty of t and coffee. All welcome. Got some bud in the fridge in the garage too if that\'s what you prefer.
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I need more power outlets in my garage. Garage Fridge sounds like an essential tool. Might have to wait until I\'ve got the hoist and engine stand though.
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Hmmm 4 hours and 26mins drive....
:Giggle
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TBH the fridge is in the damn way!! That\'s a long drive Brett!!
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4 hours 26 minutes drive......pfffft, home to work is 7 hours.
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It takes me 3 mins to make pop tarts.
We\'re talking times so thought I would chop in as I felt left out. Ha
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Well this turned up today, 6 days late!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/484D8F5A-30A3-4B9C-85CA-8C50823173D4-15420-000004755DF9FCB8.jpg)
From china via the US. Quality bit of kit, good enough for sick notes 3 rotor and Steve putts race car, good enough for my drag car
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Loving the build grant... It\'s getting there.. Soon you will be enjoying your car mate :-)
Mir
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You have to love anything with old school toggle switches and a start button. This is going to be cool.
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Yep - anything that has a row switches and at least one safety cover is full of win :D
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Thanks guys. Going to be wiring the panel dothat you still need the key to start otherwise anyone could steal it! Just waiting for a tool to help make AN fittings off easier. Once the sump, oil cooler and rad code is in I could probably get it running! But it won\'t have any brakes:(
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I\'m considering fitting a covered toggle switch AND a key switch to disable my traction control. Just because it looks badass.
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Is it running yet?
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Ha, no. Still waiting on this stupid tool for the braided hose. I\'m in no rush to get it done. Can\'t wait though
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When you have the right tools
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/47E8C167-F260-4CA3-9780-F907009F05AB-32330-0000089B45E97609.jpg)
These are fun and easy to do
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/ECFFCCF4-35AA-414D-843E-00374965E097-32330-0000089B630CD5D5.jpg)
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Well done Grant.
I know where to visit if I need some doing !!!
Chris
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When you have the right tools
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/47E8C167-F260-4CA3-9780-F907009F05AB-32330-0000089B45E97609.jpg)
These are fun and easy to do
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/ECFFCCF4-35AA-414D-843E-00374965E097-32330-0000089B630CD5D5.jpg)
That looks like a nice job - I did mine by hand - not too bad if you cut the braided hose with a dremmel so you get a lovely clean cut, but how do those black chunky things work then?
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Bring any down and I will do them for you. Cut the lengths and I will make them up, I can do -6,-8,-10 I didn\'t see the need to get -4 maybe need the -12 though for oil lines?? Hmm
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That looks like a nice job - I did mine by hand - not too bad if you cut the braided hose with a dremmel so you get a lovely clean cut, but how do those black chunky things work then?
You put the screw off piece of the fitting inside the black cube, put cube in vice, push hose in:D the entrance of the cube is angle and pushes any frayed end in nice and easy. I also have a vice grips for AN fitting which you out the other part into the grips then push and screw the hose piece on. I was amazed how quick and easy it was
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In here first
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/D7CC60BB-3641-408F-A609-2CCDB167DB82-32796-000008B47A15A5B5.jpg)
Spacer in the back for right fitment :)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/D7AC39EC-1EAE-4039-BB30-D3764AF858F9-32796-000008B482346967.jpg)
Then into the vice
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/8AAC9844-6490-4123-AE6E-3751B52EF5DC-32796-000008B48C4FCFCD.jpg)
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Neat job :Thumbs-up
Adam
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Well iv contacted the people that Gaz got his brakes from for his amazing project. I was going to make my own hubs and caliper mounting brackets but being able to get stuff essentially off the shelf is going to be better.
Here\'s the email I got back
We can do a conversion for the RX7 1st generation which would include rotors, bells, calipers, brackets, pads, fluid and hoses.
For the 16" wheel we would recommend a 300/28mm Monster 4 conversion which is £979.87 + Vat
For the 17" wheel we would recommend a 335/32mm Monster 4 conversion which is £1138.87 + Vat.
We can also do a Monster 6 version for both of the above. Our monster 6 300/28mm conversion is £1105.87 and the 335/32mm would be £1264.87 all + vat.
I will be going for the 300mm 4pot calipers as I\'m going for 16" wheels up front as 17" may be just a bit too big looking for the rx4. The 6pots I don\'t think will be necessary. If I need to stop that quick I will just install a chute :evillaugh
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Nice. Also, four pots will work better with a smaller master cylinder and since it\'s going to be a street-strip car the brakes will be fine on the street and you\'ll have enough stopping power from the 130 mph-ish terminal speeds you\'re aiming for on the strip.
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Plus I don\'t want my face coming off when I press the brake pedal as the car is very light:)
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That\'s cool , saves foooookin about wasting time making stuff . Will stop well with 300mm and big calipers and alot cheaper than crashing , lol .
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" alot cheaper than crashing , lol "
That is the wizes thing i have ever heard :)
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So a couple things have happened, fuel lines and FPR are in. Fuel system now 95% complete :D
Got myself some light weight front wheel for when I go racing
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/D79CDD66-57D9-44FE-A084-3E51EB121A71-25853-000007508C1C30C8.jpg)
Had them blasted and powder coated silver.
When I get my drag tyres I will be getting them powder coated a different colour but not letting on what colour they will be until they\'re done.
So the company I contacted don\'t actually do a brake kit without making custom one off hubs which require a long wait time, so B&Q I to square one and were making them ourselves, dads got a lathe, going to teach me to use it and make my own hubs:D:D
Here\'s the aluminium in the lathe, soon these will be hubs
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/AD6A0832-3B95-40C6-AE8D-35520BA6C496-25853-00000750685AB538.jpg)
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Do the skinny wheels/tyres have a bad effect on braking?
I would have thought it could be a worry? (It\'s something I\'ve been considering)
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Rob blackshaw runs them on his 8 second FD. Just needs better tyres as the skin us are only rated for 65mph. I won\'t be driving the car daily with the skinnys, just racing.
Probably going to use some spacers to give it a wider track at the front so it looks right and helps the steering be more stable
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Also I\'m not going to be slammig on the brakes or need to be slowing down that quick as if I\'m going that quick to cause problems under braking I will just use a parachute but I doubt I will ever go that fast
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Skinny tyres on the front mean less rolling resistance on the drag strip so faster times, they do limit the amount of braking you can do but since the \'Pod has enough space to slow a Top Fueller with a failed chute safely then I don\'t think a ten second car has much to worry about. You\'ll certainly be able to scrub off enough speed to get off at the exit lane safely with the narrow tyres.
These are the sort of things you\'d be using. (http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETFront)
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Yes those are the type will. Won\'t be needing them until the cars running, money better spent elsewhere at the mo
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No point getting track shoes if you can\'t get it out the garage. Looking forward to seeing this make a pass some time!
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Me too, once its running I won\'t be going all out for a ten as I want it caging before going really hard
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Rob doesn\'t actually use them for rolling resistance or any bs like that, skinnies actually stablise the car at top end.
The wider the front tyre, the more the car will move around. It\'s actually quite a bit when you get up over 125mph
Hope they are 17\'s grant, easier to get tyres for ;)
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Rob doesn\'t actually use them for rolling resistance or any bs like that, skinnies actually stablise the car at top end.
The wider the front tyre, the more the car will move around. It\'s actually quite a bit when you get up over 125mph
Hope they are 17\'s grant, easier to get tyres for ;)
Hey Colum, didn\'t see you had posted. I had seen you say they help with the car moving around, especially with the proper drag tyres on.
Iv just checked the size and it says D16, so I take it they\'re 16". I didn\'t know they did a 17" Mazda skinny:( are the 16" tyre available or not? I have got a friend who goes to York drag strip with his friends and they race a car in the low 8s and has said to let him know when I need some tyres and he would sort me out, but iv got to be willing to have some rims have screws driven through them?!
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Just gonna leave a few pictures of today\'s work, got some motivation back :)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/8DFC1395-F9FB-4C34-99D5-FDDBA6091FCD-21707-000005FEB40469D3.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/84421E29-611F-470F-904C-F2D127A29607-21707-000005FEBD53F2C6.jpg)
Cardboard sump for the win!! Before you say it won\'t work I\'m going to use high temp silicone in the corners and paint it, I will also be using dry oil so the card doesn\'t get soggy:D going to be using 5/6 mm aluminium, I decided to this as its easier to start from scratch instead of welding an FD sump front and FC sump rear together which I would never be happy with, this ally one will look the dogs nads!!
Decided to put thes on the car:)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/9D94A396-1E5F-4AFF-8BE5-29C55FF38CDD-21707-000005FEC58B141A.jpg)(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/04C0592D-F94A-4DD8-A593-3B8DB6143554-21707-000005FECF8FF8ED.jpg)
It makes it far easier to get around my car and they are waaaay lighter, might put the front wing on to see how they look, think I will need some spacers to get the so called EPIC WHEEL FITMENT YO!(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/04C0592D-F94A-4DD8-A593-3B8DB6143554-21707-000005FECF8FF8ED.jpg)
And this is what I\'m most excited about, my dad showe me the basics of using his lathe, and how to convert my metric measurement into imperial as the lathe is imperial, very simple really. I just roughed this chunk of ally out to within 2mm of what it will be finished too. Just waiting on a chick so I can centre bore it out and do the seats for the bearings:D also need to get some soft jaws so things stay accurate when I take the hub out of the jaws and turn it around to face off the other side
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/B654C1AA-FB97-4856-972F-DFF5AE88D665-21707-000005FED7B73D95.jpg)
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Looking very good. Remember not to take huge cuts when roughing and you can always pass back over when you just need to take a very fine cut.
Another handy trick for checking tool height as well is to get a steel rule between the job and tool. If its pointing vertical then the tool height is set right and your on centre.
There can be a huge pleasure making something on the lathe then putting it to use.
Shaun
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Thanks for the advice, we started taking 1mm off, across the diameter to see how it was cutting and if the motor was coping, we could go up to 6mm and it was cutting fine but backed it to 4mm to get a better cut. I had to machine it down to 140mm diameter and then down to 70mm so you can imagine it took a while to get it down to where it is now. Tried a couple of different cutting speeds to. I can\'t wait to work on it again, I will be really happy when its done. Need to get some metal to make my caliper mounts now :)
I just realised today that I could have put my engine in an FC and had some use out of it!! Doh, bet I could pick up a blown t2 and put my engine:) the. Swap it into the rx4 when rx4 is ready to blast!! Hmm ideas ideas.
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Lathes are cool, I spent a happy summer making parts for hillclimb cars on a lathe when I was 17.
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Hey Colum, didn\'t see you had posted. I had seen you say they help with the car moving around, especially with the proper drag tyres on.
Iv just checked the size and it says D16, so I take it they\'re 16". I didn\'t know they did a 17" Mazda skinny:( are the 16" tyre available or not? I have got a friend who goes to York drag strip with his friends and they race a car in the low 8s and has said to let him know when I need some tyres and he would sort me out, but iv got to be willing to have some rims have screws driven through them?!
You can get 16" yeah but 15" and 17" are the most common so usually cheaper :Thumbs-up
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You can get 16" yeah but 15" and 17" are the most common so usually cheaper :Thumbs-up
Ah ok, not too bothered about price as I can\'t see me needing to replace them too often. The rears however....
When I move onto a proper drag tyre I won\'t be using the standard FD wheels, possibly get a 15" rim on there with a little trimming of the rear calipers
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hi do you still have the rx4 engin could you let me know how much you want for it
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hi do you still have the rx4 engin could you let me know how much you want for it
I have the parts for it as I stripped it down, the housings are sort of not useable but the plates are in great condition., I sold the carb ages ago though not much left of it. Oh I have the eshaft and the rotors too along with counter weights front cover, oil pump, I also have the gear box, 5speed, I think I have the sump somewhere too, as for price?? I don\'t know what it\'s all really worth:(
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So this is going to become an alternator pulley so I can use the FD front cover with my side mount alternator kit:)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/9D6B6ED8-8BAB-473D-90D9-4EF94C9D157E-27897-000007ABB3B22C53.jpg)
And this sheet of 6mm 400 x 1000mm sheet is going to become a sump over the next couple of weeks :D
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/40C0C67E-B491-4561-B4EA-13D42E09CC17-27897-000007ABA9F1C34F.jpg)
Being much thicker than the standard sump it should provide some strength. I decided to make my own sump because it is probably easier than welding 2 together like I need too, and I like making stuff
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how much would you like for every thing you have for the mazda rx4
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One hub, 75% finished, another couple of hours on the otherside and it will be finished:D just need some soft jaws now
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/1E20881A-8940-4DA9-8A2D-A05662EFF75D-41863-000010E0243C226A.jpg)
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Nice work Grant. I like the fact your making the bits yourself rather than buying them or getting someone to make them. Makes me miss my lathe.
Ade
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Nice work Grant. I like the fact your making the bits yourself rather than buying them or getting someone to make them. Makes me miss my lathe.
Ade
Thanks:) I could have bought the hubs and caliper mounts from an Australian company but would have been north of £1,000 straight away, those chunks of ally cost me £50 maybe a bit more. Bought a boring bar for £5.50, electric is free to run the lathe as my dad has solar panels, which were also free:D
Bearings cost £40.
Less than £100 so far.
The money I save can pay for other things such as dyno time once its running.
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Some nice work there grant :)
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New turbo position??? Going to be making my own manifold as i just enjoy making stuff!! So might as well "try" something a bit different
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/97EBDC83-6112-48CA-891D-1EA2A40D29D7-48015-000019872A738203.jpg)
I should be able to just chop and weld the CC piping
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Interesting......will this be at Rotorstock as work in progress ??
Chris
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Interesting......will this be at Rotorstock as work in progress ??
Chris
Funnily enough I have been thinking about this today. We shall see, I have no tow vehicle or trailer so will cost me a fair bit to bring it down for the day.
I will think about it some more though.
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Don\'t bother Grant, save your pennies towards the build. have never understood the mentality of bringing cars down to shows as work in progress projects, smacks as a waste of money and time, majority of people will look and think "oh that\'s nice, does it run? No, oh thats a bit rubbish then" and walk on by. Not worth the effort and stress dude.
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Don\'t bother Grant, save your pennies towards the build. have never understood the mentality of bringing cars down to shows as work in progress projects, smacks as a waste of money and time, majority of people will look and think "oh that\'s nice, does it run? No, oh thats a bit rubbish then" and walk on by. Not worth the effort and stress dude.
Think you just made the decision for me:) I suppose it WILL be done for the following year, although iv been saying that for some time now!! Lmao.
TBH there isn\'t a great deal left to do to get it back on the road, if I had a tig welder and could tig weld it would be done much much faster.
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Exactly, hire a TIG welder for the weekend and get it done ;)
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Don\'t you need 3phase power for tig welding?
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Not for most Tig\'s Grant as they\'re inverter based it does depend what your after welding though........... Steel or Ali the latter is much more demanding and requires considerably more patience and power especially if welding decent thickness\'s. Key is clean it and then clean it again just prior to welding and specify Argon for your gas if Ali.
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Mmmmm fanimold building materials:D and also a bit of humour on there straight from the guys at E&J in the states(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/BD6CC469-47BB-4E15-A76F-C1288DA23DB8-346-00000022025BA2AF_zpsc81048c0.jpg)
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A flange for your fanimold! :rollin
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So iv got turbo into position for making my new manifold:D
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/F681C8A5-699F-487D-97BA-D74816FCE0A1-4326-0000059B064076DB_zps0e1340b6.jpg)
And getting these welded up for part of the pre-turbo WI setup, cut at different lengths to see if they make any difference when I start playing around with the wi properly. 4" 6" and 8", new turbo position might allow for a 10" length to be used. Obviously still need hols cutting in and extra pipes off them too allow air in. End that contexts to turbo will have a swage on in so it clamps onto front of turbo securely
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/C94D2E9B-241F-4998-9FCC-F7CD0D1D07B9-4326-0000059B1DD6D88E_zps89df0d8e.jpg)
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dont waste your time moutning the turbo like that.. you just should of bought a manifold from SDR Motorsports in aus for £250 shipped and be done with it..
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dont waste your time moutning the turbo like that.. you just should of bought a manifold from SDR Motorsports in aus for £250 shipped and be done with it..
Really? Why?
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its common in aus for drag cars that have massive turbos but seriously there is more the enough room for the BW366 between the block and strut tower.. .. i guess if your going for the "wow look at the turbo its moutned sideways" then gold but just to do it for looks and added extra length in the runners i personally wouldnt bother..
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It\'s going there for when I go bigger in the future:D I know it fits down in the standard position but it\'s really close to my LIM, which I will also be changing in the future.
Plus it makes positioning the WG in a much easier accessible position.
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Got a little motivation this afternoon and got into the garage and started making my fanimold:D
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/Mobile%20Uploads/83445E68-529F-4ADE-8A7E-020351044F3C.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/Mobile%20Uploads/12219695-6BDE-4146-97D7-C61BBBB57911.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/Mobile%20Uploads/AC90A25B-F6FF-4D7F-8C5E-719221C7E74C.jpg)
Won\'t be long to finish it off, got some massaging of the pipes to do into the turbo flange and wastegate piping. Having my manifold like this makes things easier for access and also I can route WG dump pipe point out Infront of the wheel:evilaugh
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looking good the Famifold Grant!!
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Cheers, I took the "I don\'t car about equal lengths but I want as little bends as possible" approach.
Got my mate coming to look at the car next weekend so I can show him what I need him to do welding wise. WG should be in a great place and fire flames all over the floor!!
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yip should look pretty at night the wastegate opening up on two step
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Now a 2 step on the street would be awesome, have to check the Haltech I have can do it.
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Just checked the haltech forum:D and yep I can do a 2 step/launch control, and it can be done different ways
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yip any aftermarket ECU worth its salt has a secondary rev limit which you activate, mine will just activate from a button , keeping it simple
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Yeh iv seen some people have the button on the break pedal. From what iv read you use a soft ignition cut, and within a couple of seconds it builds ~6psi and a few more seconds 10+psi!!
With the Haltech you can also do it cutting fuel but that sounds pointless to me as it won\'t spool turbo??
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there is also the proper option that drag racers use to build boost, retard 25deg and add a percentage more fuel and a rev limit, proper 2step. ill be using that function as it comes built into my ecu and is usually activated by a clutch switch
tried it on my road car at pod and broke both axles when i jumped off the clutch lol
what wall material you using grant?
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yip motec there is various options, with retarding and the like, same with Microtech,Haltech etc
lots of pops and bangs for 2014!!
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there is also the proper option that drag racers use to build boost, retard 25deg and add a percentage more fuel and a rev limit, proper 2step. ill be using that function as it comes built into my ecu and is usually activated by a clutch switch
tried it on my road car at pod and broke both axles when i jumped off the clutch lol
what wall material you using grant?
Wall material?? I believe my walls are made from bricks and mortar;)
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:2Rolleyes
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Manifold material? 321SS 16 gauge iirc. The manifold is going to be supported off the engine so it won\'t be bearing any weight an help prevent any cracking.
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Spent 30mins on the car today working out best place fire the waste gate, me and my welder buddy decided it was better to not hide the WG under the car but mount on the topside of the manifold inside the engine bay "on show" :):D I think James willdays rx7 is like that?
Also cut the piece for the inlet pipe from the CC too the plenum.
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Get some piccys up bud!
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None of the manifold but should be back too me this week. Getting excited. Once intakes done then rad will be done
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Right so pulled my finger out of my arse today and spent a little bit of time on the car, it\'s been bugging me on how to squeeze the rad in with my turbo and all the piping. I just couldn\'t figure out how to get it in without having a radiator built to fit, which meant money:(
HOWEVER my brain started working when I picked up the rad up!!
My thought was why can\'t I trim the rad down too fit into the space I wanted it too go!! So out came the cutting disc and bam, it now fits. Just need to seal the end tanks back and add some mounting tabs:)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/C07ECDD0-F07F-4564-A701-3E98AC79FBC2.jpg)
Rad taped in place:D
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/B39598A3-08BB-423D-A5AC-0A744E22998A.jpg)
Getting that in there spurred me on to cutting the rad pipes too length, still have to get an inline filler and cut bits out too mount the EWP but you get the idea.
Getting the use of a TIG welder next weekend so I can tack everything together for my mate too do it fully
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/69DE9E6A-3207-42A0-B65D-334F0B6868EA.jpg)
Few random pics I took of the alternator on its bracket and how close it is too my CC! The alternator will be having a different homemade pulley on it and painted/polished. Will be getting it converted too more am page too. 100Amps.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/AA5FF0DA-BD74-443C-BF70-7F4D92333871.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/665247C4-F6C7-46AE-9897-0B2D8B76AE2C.jpg)
Turned the engine over by hand a fair few times today and stick my finger through the exhaust ports, stil nicely lubed up and holes sealed so no moisture got in there. All looks and feels good.
Target to get engine started is underway
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That was brave cutting that rad...fair play!
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It was cheap so wasn\'t that bothered, going to seal end plate and weld a protection piece down the whole side
Why would you say brave? They only made up cooling fins and tubes for water to pass through should be all good
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My rad was £480 so would be a bit cautious taking a grinder to it ! lol As long as you can weld it than fair play.
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eBay special so don\'t care. Lol. If it was £400 it would have been the right size too start with.
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neat solution you gotta keep at it! That\'s what i keep telling myself!
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Well done Grant, nice to see you making more progress.
What\'s your target month to have this fully operational ?
Chris
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Well done Grant, nice to see you making more progress.
What\'s your target month to have this fully operational ?
Chris
My target is too get it running first. No time scale as I don\'t want to rush anything and I don\'t want to be disappointed I didn\'t get it ready in time:(
Once engine is running then I will make it move under its own power, then do the front brakes so I can drive it out of garage and turn it around to do the rear brakes.
Make road worthy.
MOT
Drive it
Break it
Fix it
Race it.
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Make road worthy.
MOT
Drive it
Break it
Fix it
Race it.
Excellent, got to have a list or things don\'t happen :Thumbsup!
(good to see stuff happening)
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nice progress dude
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Thanks guys. I can\'t wait to get this thing fired up for the first time. And I can\'t belive how naive I was to not think to shorten the rad myself!!
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happy welding :)
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Grant, how much there is stuff to do? Just curious, is it ready for RS11? :)
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Grant, how much there is stuff to do? Just curious, is it ready for RS11? :)
There is lots to do:( the engine might be running by RS11 but probably not finished
If it is finished by RS11 then you can count on it being there:D
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Ahh... :/ Well, I´ll hope you get her finished. Looking forward to see her.
Btw, would you be able to bring it on trailer?
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RS11 would be a good motivational date! 6 months away. Sooner its finished the quicker you can start enjoying it!
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Ahh... :/ Well, I´ll hope you get her finished. Looking forward to see her.
Btw, would you be able to bring it on trailer?
I have considered bringing it on a trailer previously but I want to be able to drive to places in it and enjoy it on the drive there. I\'m always nervous with my own car on a trailer.
Plus it\'s a road going drag car, not no trailer queen:)
RS11 would be a good motivational date! 6 months away. Sooner its finished the quicker you can start enjoying it!
Yeh it would motivate me but if I didn\'t get it done I would be disappointed. We shall see.
Getting the engine running is the best kind of motivation to finish
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I\'m looking forward to seeing this at Rotorstock. It is my target date for my project too!
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If it\'s done and road worthy etc then it will be there setting off every bodies car alarms:evillaugh
It might not be finished too the standard but if it\'s road legal then I will be using it:)
Iv already had thoughts of re wiring the looks in the car, they\'re a mess and you can see them, I want them hidden!! If possible
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Top stuff , nearly there now . :cool
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It\'s going to be a lot closer after today\'s work:-)
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Yesterday, progress was made.
Some of the welds look crap but they will be tidied up, I\'m not
Looking for welding awards, I\'m looking for a sealed boost pipe!
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/01938A05-C241-42A3-97C1-5053973A2EED.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/6CDF0E14-3D31-4229-9DCB-3841599FBA71.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/A75F31F0-ED65-4720-83AA-D5173059652A.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/D5E5B909-BC2D-4503-9AD4-7C062913D521.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/38C1B9A0-75F9-4F73-83D2-04F6595C95C9.jpg)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/5198D32B-3FEC-4431-AFB6-31530F18FAB5.jpg)
My dad practicing in the first pic as he hasn\'t done and TIG for a long time.
Then our friend turned up who is a welder fabricator tutor and wanted a go at welding aluminium as he never gets to do it. All I can say is he\'s flipping awesome!! He filled those big gaps from my poor cutting easy peasy. Lol
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Getting the welder again next weekend so should have all the boost pipes done and the rad pipes!! I want the bare minimum of silicone joiners on my pipes so the 2 in the rad pipes will be gone.
Engine will be coming out so I can do the sump as need too mark out the holes etc.
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Very nice progress :D
Aluminum welding is really hard, like welding two melted chocolate bars together.
Shaun
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Yeh it is Shaun, I had a go but had no clue. I just do the cutting and clean and holding whilst others weld
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That looks really good. Great to see it coming together! Forgot you had an air-to-water intercooler. Looks very cool!
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Thanks Will:) held of my decisions have been about how it looks so the charge cooler was a must as it looks bad ass!
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Looking good mate :)
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good progress thats what I like to see
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Cheers guys
It\'s what I like to see too, more done in one day than in the last 2 years. However I have done up my house in that time!
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looking good!
like that mani alot
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looking good!
like that mani alot
Honestly? I have considered many times to get the E&J manifold along with the 4 branch LIM
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i meant the exhaust mani
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Aah. Lol. Thanks. I will tell my buddy, came up with how best to make it all fit etc, and there\'s no way we could hide such a piece of art like the wastegate under the car, so it will be getting pipes straight out of the wing or bonnet, not sure which just yet.
Plumbed in WG are for pussies!!
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"Plumbed in WG are for pussies!!"
And car running on track !!! Mine was 103dba at Snetterton. :rollin
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"Plumbed in WG are for pussies!!"
And car running on track !!! Mine was 103dba at Snetterton. :rollin
If my car isn\'t at 110dBs I will be upset. Although with the race exhaust position it will be waaaaay louder than that! Hahaha
race exhaust position is going straight out of the wing, mega phone style. 3-5" pipe!! :evillaugh
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One advantage of drag racing, they don\'t noise test drag cars. That conversation would be funny.
"I\'m sorry sir, your 500 cu in, 16 plug, twin magneto, mother of all blowers, open headered, nitro-buring Hemi funny car has failed noise testing."
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One advantage of drag racing, they don\'t noise test drag cars. That conversation would be funny.
"I\'m sorry sir, your 500 cu in, 16 plug, twin magneto, mother of all blowers, open headered, nitro-buring Hemi funny car has failed noise testing."
If the noise police get there own way they will enforce noise limits on drag racing in the future, and make people use electric drag cars, which would be gay.
Half of the attraction if drag racings is the noise, one of the reasons blowers are so much more popular than turbos, as turbo spoil the sound
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I hope that never happens, I love watching Nitro-burning drag cars. It\'s a noise you feel.
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110 dB jesus thats loud! Looking good! I cant weld period!
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Liam\'s drag car was 120dB, through 2 mufflers, I will be having no mufflers at the pod.
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"I\'m sorry sir, your 500 cu in, 16 plug, twin magneto, mother of all blowers, open headered, nitro-buring Hemi funny car has failed noise testing."
LMAO
Yes, exhaust looks good. And intake too :)
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My FC WAS 113db once at Cadwell. I had to put the bungs in and be a bit shy on the throttle for the second noise test :). Oh and I got pulled over by the police on the way to the track at half 5 in the morning. Think I woke them from their layby slumber!
Ade
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I blew the backbox on my RX8 and got 112 db on a trackday. It sounded immense but I had to wear ear defenders when I was driving it.
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We measured mine at 112Dbl when I was on the twins. Although it was 3in straight with a single backbox, which Pip pointed out later on had absolutely no baffles in (blown them all out). Great when the brew is ready for you when you arrive at home :D
Guys at work could hear me coming from over a mile away in the smoking shelter on weekends going to work :D
Shaun
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Haha, ok then guys maybe it will be louder than 110dB with the mega phone exhaust out the wing. So long as it is accompanied by flames I will be happy! Street exhaust will be somewhat tame...... Well sort of.
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Wing exit exhaust will be loud! 118 db is my bet!
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Wing exit exhaust will be loud! 118 db is my bet!
Liam\'s pp with primary side ports was 120dB with a car length rear exit exhaust. I\'m thinking it will be louder
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Might be. The tube might just act as an amplifier if there aren\'t any baffles or resonators in it. It ain\'t going to be quiet either way.
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The misleading thing with the DB scale is it is exponential, so 120-121 is a lot. It\'s something to do with air pressure?
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Decibels are a complex unit. They are logarithmic, so they increase exponentially. An increase of 3db effectively doubles the sound energy.
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Personally id find that level of noise distracting like direct sunlight in the eyes...ok for the strip but on the road man that would grate after 5 mins. Flames always good though.
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I think he has plans for a dual solution. One for the road and one for the strip.
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Dual solution..." Shock and Awe" !
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I think he has plans for a dual solution. One for the road and one for the strip.
Correct.
Drag exhaust is for part of the spectacle and nothing better than putting the other driver off because he\'s got flames fuel and noise shifting at them!!
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Dry sump???.......... I wish
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc507/grantmonkhouse/D14B0543-145A-4050-96BD-852DAAFA2653.jpg)
I stripped everything back out yesterday so we could make the sump.
Now when I say this took me ten minutes I\'m not even joking, single turbo setup and how iv put this engine bay together are just amazing. So much easier and comfort than an FD twin turbo!!! Every nut bolt and screw is accessible without getting skinned knuckles.:):D
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looking good
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just spent the past hour on this thread. Top work Grant ;)
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Cheer Liam. :)
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want one now :)
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want one now :)
No don\'t do it!! Wait until mines finished and running low 10s high 9s and buy mine:);)
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Damn it man! Now I\'m getting ideas about doing Hot Rod Drag Week in your RX4. There\'s the small matter of buying it and getting it to the states to do it but nothing a few lucky lotto numbers won\'t fix! :Thumbs-up
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Btw, did you get that Kia ring and pinion? Sorry, I was lazy and didnt read all these pages ;)
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Btw, did you get that Kia ring and pinion? Sorry, I was lazy and didnt read all these pages ;)
Yes I did, 4.67-1:):D
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Do you have "serial number" or something like that? And does it really go straight to your diff? What about -84 FB diff?
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Yeh I\'m prety sure it goes straight into the FB diff. I got a slip diff from australia that goes straight into the FB diff carrier but uses my rx4 half shafts as they have a lot more splines than FB half shafts, much stronger.
Sadly I don\'t know any serial numbers, we bought the complete Kia diff off eBay and removed the crown wheel and pinion. Think it cost me £90
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Do you have "serial number" or something like that? And does it really go straight to your diff? What about -84 FB diff?
Everything you need to know about Mazda diffs.
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2695
The guy that started the thread sold me my diff, gets them from japan somewhere but wouldn\'t tells what car it came from! It\'s not his business to sell diffs so he doesn\'t make much profit on diffs sold
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Thank for info and link mate :)
One guy here have done some research about those Kia diffs too. I do know that some diff goes to Fb, but I think that it wasnt straight swap. It costs about 250€ new. :(
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Thank for info and link mate :)
One guy here have done some research about those Kia diffs too. I do know that some diff goes to Fb, but I think that it wasnt straight swap. It costs about 250€ new. :(
That\'s a good price considering that racing beat http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1985/Ring-Pinion-Differential.html
Charge a lot more.
Get into ausrotary and post in that thread I linked you too, the guy will sort you out with the right info. My slip diff cost £650 delivered to my door iirc